New Orleans is a city made of equal parts magic, music and lovers of life. When walking down the streets of the French Quarter, Frenchman Street, and the Garden District, you can't help but stroll among the spirits of yesterday -- each one filled with a variety of emotions ranging from love, light and strength to sorrow, darkness and despair. New Orleans is a city with a history like no other, a city that embodies strength and perseverance, a city that continually rebuilds. New Orleans has shown the world time and time again that no matter how fierce the storms are that cross its path, it will continue to shine because brass never rusts, and when one song ends, it's time for the next one to begin.
St. Louis Cathedral, New Orleans, LA. (c) Michelle Moore
I was in New Orleans a week ago, for the first time in over ten years, accompanied by two lovely girlfriends who have a gift for capturing picturesque moments. Our adventure mantra was threefold: (1) have an open mind and be bold, (2) go with the flow and allow the city take us wherever she wanted us to go, and (3) if doors opened, walk through them.
Our rules worked like magic. One day we found ourselves smiling from ear to ear as we danced to the sax player that is Donald Harrison (get ready to swoon ladies), followed by a quick stop to get our tarot cards read in the French Quarter, dancing to the Rebirth Brass Band at The Maple Leaf Bar alongside Billy Gibbons from ZZ Top, enjoying our adventure into the wee hours of the morning. Another day we'd be dancing in the streets to a brass band on the corner of Chartres St. and Frenchmen St., only to walk down Bourbon Street onto the set of Jack Reacher 2 while Tom Cruise ran through a Halloween parade in December. One afternoon we jumped into an Uber right after John Malkovich jumped out only to head to a book store where the handsome gentlemen buying books next to me was Michiel Huisman from HBO's Treme and Game of Thrones (sorry ladies, he's taken). New Orleans is filled with both danger and excitement around every corner, but if you keep your ears and eyes open, it is a city where anyone can have the same front row seat for amazing food, music, and new life experiences.
The Crescent City embraced us, unlocking doors every step of the way. It unlocked a door in my heart that will forever be open to the people, the sounds, and the spirits that are the city of New Orleans.
27 Doors to Walk Through in New Orleans
1.Café du Monde - 800 Decatur St.
Close your eyes. Make a wish as you blow lightly on the plate full of powdered sugar. Feel gratitude for how awesome your life is going to get after you take your first bite. Every day should begin and end with coffee and beignets from the 24 hour café that is Café du Monde.
Café du Monde: Café au lait and French-style beignets. Photo (c) Michelle Moore
2.The Ruby Slipper - 200 Magazine St.
Inspired by a powerful sense of homecoming and rebuilding after Katrina, the owners "Feels gratitude every day for our home New Orleans." Not to mention the Eggs Cochon, Gulf Fish St. Peter, and the Southern Breakfast will make you want to eat breakfast for all three of your daily meals.
3.Tujague's Restaurant & Bar - 823 Decatur St.
The second oldest restaurant in New Orleans. Established in 1856. The gumbo was so good that when I spilled some on my shirt, I wore it all night as a badge of honor.
New Orleans adventure crystals by Deer Hazel. Photo (c) Stella mowen
4.Hex: Old World Witchery - 1912 Decatur St.
Stop by for a tarot card reading with Anastasia, the legendary card reader, for a little clarity in life. Peruse the crystals and create your own special "Mojo Bag," blessed by Charles, to add a little magic to your journey.
5.Bamboula's - 516 Frenchmen St
Stopped by to watch John Lisi & Delta Funk! John's soulful guitar playing kept everyone dancing all night. One minute I was dancing with a Mardi Gras Indian, the next swing dancing with a street musician after he placed his guitar on the floor, and finally dipped so low by a svelte man in a Stetson fedora that my toe reached straight up to the star. A real lady never says no to a man who outstretches his hand for a dance.
Bamboula's John Lisi & Delta Funk! Photo (c) Katrina Marcinow
6.Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro - 626 Frenchmen St
Behind the narrow door in the back of the bar lies a musical landmark. The night I was there, Dr. Lonnie Smith was jamming on his Hammond B-3 organ accompanied by Donald Harrison. No photos allowed, my only job was to be present and enjoy the show, and indeed I did.
7.One Eyed Jacks -- 615 Toulouse St
A burgundy colored bar with floor to ceiling brocade patterned wallpaper. The music of Grace Gibson lured us into the tiny crowded front bar like a great seduction. Great place to catch up and coming indie artists.
8.The Maple Leaf -- 8316 Oak St
Life bands 7 nights a week. Great music transcends time and the Rebirth Brass Band's Tuesday night residency lives up to its reputation. Be prepared to embrace the energy of the room, and if you get too hot dancing, step outside and pay your regards to the poet Everette Maddox, his ashes are buried in the patio behind the Maple Leaf Bar under a stone that reads: "Everette Maddox - He was a mess."
9.The Maison -- 508 Frenchmen St
"We have a saying in New Orleans, you know you are at a good show in New Orleans when your teacher, neighbor, friends, and grandmother all wind up at the same place without planning it." This bar is a melting pot of music lovers.
The Maison. Photo (c) Stella Mowen
10.The Napoleon House - 500 Chartres St.
The building was built in 1797. The bartender has an amazing moustache that curls on both sides and he's served the establishment for 18 years, oh the things he has seen...Don't forget to get a Pimm's Go-Cup to enjoy while you walk around listen to street artists.
11.The Roosevelt -- 130 Roosevelt Way
Doors originally opened in 1893. Get a glimpse of years of holiday traditions as you walk through the winter wonderland hallway in December.
The Roosevelt, New Orleans. Photo (c) Michelle Moore
12.The Bombay Club -- 830 Conti St.
One block off the infamous Bourbon Street. Walk through the red door and leave the present day behind as you embrace the comfort of the speakeasy. Grab a Sazerac or an old fashioned, (or if you're feeling adventurous the turtle soup), and enjoy as you sway to the music of the artist playing in the library.
13.Arnuad's French 75 -- 813 Rue Bienville
A bar once reserved for gentlemen only. Now adorned by pretty ladies sitting cross legged in animal print chairs. I love a glass of red wine with a side of vintage ambiance.
14.Frenchmen Art Market -- 619 Frenchmen St
Support New Orleans' artists. Walk down a magically lit pathway lined on each side by local artisans selling their wonderful crafts. Different artists set up shop nightly. #shopsmall
TREME Necklace by New Orleans artist Porter Lyons. Photo (c) Katrina Marcinowski
15.King Creole -- 1018 Royal Street
The 1958 film King Creole was Elvis' last film produced in black and white. Based off the 1952 novel A Stone for Danny Fisher by Harold Robbins, Elvis later indicated that Danny Fisher was his favorite role he ever played. Full disclosure, I have a thing for 50's Elvis. It's only fitting that we ran into Robert, a New Orleans local working on Jack Reacher 2, to share with us the piece of history that was the balcony above us, as unknowingly stood in front of the teal doors leading to the balcony that Elvis sang his heart out to the streets of New Orleans, in the filming of King Creole.
16.The Ritz-Carlton -- 921 Canal St.
Formerly the department store Maison Blanche in 1897, 118 years later the Ritz Carlton. $106 million went into refurbishing the hotel after Katrina and it was well worth it to preserve the legacy that is the Ritz. Hideaway in the Library Lounge, enjoy a drink under the stars in the garden courtyard, and grab a cocktail in the Davenport Lounge.
The Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans. Photo (c) Michelle Moore
17.The St. Charles Streetcar - Operating since 1835
"Well are you getting on or what?" We jumped Dukes of Hazard style onto the streetcar while it was still in motion to avoid being yelled at any further. Once you get on, you may never get off. In all seriousness, the back door of the trolley will be the hardest door you open in all of New Orleans. Enjoy the ride among the streets that frequently have no names.
18.The Garden District Book Shop - 2727 Prytania St.
Britton and his wife have been collectors and sellers of stories in this quaint Garden District location for over 35 years; he definitely has a story or two of his own to share as well! Stop by and say hello to Amy, she not only knows everyone in town, she also has a book recommendation to fit any of your daily needs. #shopsmall
19.Magnolia Mansion -- 2127 Prytania St
A haunted place of beauty. Flickering lights and ghostly spirits danced in the sparkling reflections of the chandelier adorned rooms alongside statues of Aphrodite. The three of us sat in rocking chairs on the front porch, enjoying the silence of the Garden District, as our chairs slowly rocked between the past, the present, and the future.
Magnolia Mansion. Photo (c) Katrina Marcinowski
20.The Columns Hotel -- 3811 St. Charles Avenue
My New Orleans friends were telling ghost stories around the Christmas tree in the Victorian lounge; I think the ghosts enjoyed the stories as much as we did. Two of the people in our group knew stories of the same ghost of a recently deceased local. How serendipitous.
21.Loa - 221 Camp St.
The signature cocktail of the Loa bar is The Green Door. "It's a mansion at night with a green velvet lawn and a thousand windows: each time you knock a light goes on in a different room."
Stella Mowen drinking The Green Door. (c) Michelle Moore
22.Wyndham La Belle Maison - 515 Gravier St.
Ghosts from the days of the five printing factories that were combined to make the Wyndham La Belle Maison floated around during our stay. Each room its own little apartment with plenty of room for ghosts of the past and us three ladies of the present. Across the street from The Ruby Slipper, block from the French Quarter and the St. Charles street car, we were happy to call it home after our days of exploring.
23.Love It! - 2028 Magazine St.
Danna Lea, the shop owner and fashion designer, has history deeply rooted in New Orleans. She recently opened her own dream shop on Magazine St in the Garden District, half retail, half artist workshop and an exposed brick office with vintage framed prints. We were so inspired by her designs, we bought flapper inspired handmade headbands and wore them to the Roosevelt as a celebration of art, women, and timeless beauty. #shopsmall
Danna Lea, Owner of Love It!. Photo (c) Katrina Marcinowski
24.District: Donuts. Sliders. Brews. - 2209 Magazine St.
If you decide to take a break for beignets for breakfast, I recommend stopping by District Donut for a cinnamon roll donut. I was floating in sugar rush heaven for the rest of the day.
25.Port of Call - 838 Esplanade Ave
We found the best burgers and jukebox in town. I'm almost afraid to tell you about it because I want a seat at this 50 year old dive bar next time I'm in town. 100% beef burgers accompanied by a loaded baked potato, just like mom used to make during summer BBQs. Walking distance from Frenchmen St.
26.Lafayette Cemetery - No. 1 - Washington Ave
Lafayette Cemetery No.1 is the oldest of the seven municipal cemeteries. A cemetery in the shape of a cruciform pattern, its walkways once filled with seashells. It is a non-segregated, non-denominational cemetery dating back to 1833.
Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. Photo (c) Katrina Marcinowski.
27.Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar - 941 Bourbon Street
We ended our journey drinking hot toddies while our backs were warmed by the stone fireplace while Piano Man played live in the background. Built in 1722 and reputed to be the oldest bar in America. We shared stories with new friends we met along our journey as we sat alongside the exposed bricks, the crackling fire, and the ghosts of yesterday. It was the perfect place to end our story.
Until next time New Orleans! There were dozens of more places I wanted to see; this list only scratches the surface. I'm looking forward to our next adventure together.
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