I’ve always assumed that applying my foundation on top of an angry pimple was just a necessary evil if I wanted to leave the house without feeling like the whole world was staring at the pimple, even if it meant my breakout would look worse the day after.
But after speaking with skin care experts from dermatologists to aestheticians, I’ve learned that there are many foundations out there that not only won’t make acne worse, but might actually help keep blemishes at bay while offering the best breakout-friendly coverage around.
When shopping around for foundation, Vanessa Coppola, a board-certified nurse practitioner and founder of a New Jersey-based medical spa, said you want something that’s non-comedogenic.
“This basically means it’s not going to clog up your pores and make your acne worse,” Coppola said. “The next step is to look for an oil-free formulation. Almost all foundation brands typically have a water-based oil-free version of their foundation.”
Board-certified San Diego-based dermatologist Dr. Azadeh Shirazi said that comedogenic foundation formulas are typically heavier and contain “petroleum, mineral oil, lanolin, coconut oil, avocado oil, and waxy emollients like myristyl myristate.”
She added that silicones, although they can help impart a silky texture to foundations, have occlusive properties and therefore can cause buildup in pores.
“The key is to find a lightweight formula, perhaps more water-based, made with hyaluronic acid that delivers coverage and contributes to the overall health and hydration of the skin,” Shirazi said.
According to Coppola, finding an oil-free, non-comedogenic foundation that also contains blemish-fighting ingredients is a “win-win scenario,” especially for those with acne-prone skin.
“Ingredients that have a long history of acne-fighting properties include salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil and mineral-based clays which can help to absorb oil for those that produce excessive amounts of sebum from their skin,” Coppola said. She explained that the inclusion of skin care staples such as ceramides, glycerin and aloe vera can help maintain a healthy skin barrier, something that’s often comprised with acne and has the potential to make exacerbate breakouts.
Shirazi and Coppola both agree that your skin care regime prior to makeup application is as equally important as the foundation you choose.
“Ensuring your skin is cleansed thoroughly, exfoliating weekly and moisturizing to support the skin barrier are important steps,” Shirazi said.
Coppola cited the “like dissolves like” concept in skin care. “If you’re going to use a water-based oil-free foundation on your face, it is going to work best if your skin is prepped with an oil-free hydrator. If you put heavy oil-based emollients on your skin after cleansing and then apply a water-based oil-free foundation, it will likely separate and cake,” she said.
Instead of pouring over ingredients lists and hedging your bets on a foundation that might work for your breakouts, keep reading to see which acne-prone foundations have gotten the approval of Shirazi, Coppola and other skin care professionals.
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"It also has a mousse-like, matte texture to help camouflage active breakouts while controlling oil and blurring the appearance of pores," Shirazi said.
"It's a silicone in water formulation that is buffered with hydrating ingredients that are noncomedogenic and is free from parabens, sulfates, drying alcohols and synthetic fragrances," she said.
"It's an oil-free skin care-like formula that contains SPF 40, charcoal to help purify the skin, clay to absorb oil and tea tree to help fight bacteria," Yadav said. The matte-finish cream is available in 12 shades.
"It contains 0.5% salicylic acid, a known acne-fighting ingredient, which is formulated in a silicone and water formulation allowing for a smooth glide in your application and it has a balanced profile of nonirritating hydration and oil control agents that help to break out excess oil on the skin," Coppola said.
"It never feels dry or cakey and it really does give your skin a glowy, dewy look," Coppola said.
The wildly popular, oil-free and hydrating formula, which is available in 40 shades, claims to blur imperfections and offer the perfect level of seamless coverage and allows color pigments to lay flat for blending and layering and won't pill or separate.
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