The Best Moisturizers To Pair With Skin-Drying Retinols

There are so many reasons to love retinol-infused skin care products. Not only can they help to reduce the look of sun damage and treat or prevent acne, but it increases cell turnover, stimulates collagen and evens out skin tone, making it the hardest working ingredient in the biz. This is not your everyday TikTok beauty trend. That said, it doesn’t come without side effects, unfortunately. While prescription-grade creams are the most potent, any and all beauty products featuring retinol can be very drying. As a result, it’s of the utmost importance that you pair your retinol with a nourishing and hydrating moisturizer, though you want to take care that you aren’t clogging your pores in the process.

Those of us with acne-prone, sensitive skin need to be vigilant about avoiding moisturizers that could potentially cause congestion or irritation. Prioritize non-comedogenic moisturizers and oils (though even those might be risky for people with acneic skin). You’ll also want to avoid anything that is formulated with fragrance since it can lead to redness, skin peeling, rashes and worse. It can be overwhelming to parse through ingredient lists to figure out what’s right for your skin, so we asked dermatologists what to look for, and what to avoid.

First, some definitions: retinols, retinoids and retinoic acid

While “retinol” is often used as a blanket term to describe these skin-boosting vitamin A derivatives, when it comes to the prescription stuff we’re mostly talking about retinoids.

“Both retinoids and retinol are vitamin A derivatives that ultimately get converted into retinoic acid, the active form of the molecule,” Dr. Corey Hartman, medical director and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama, and clinical assistant professor at the Department of Dermatology at the University of Alabama at Birmingham, told HuffPost. He puts it simply: “Retinols are over-the-counter (OTC) or physician-dispensed. Retinoids are prescription.”

Dr. Papri Sarkar, a dermatologist in Brookline, Massachusetts, told HuffPost that retinols and retinoids both work by entering a cell and directing it to increase skin turnover and produce new collagen, which helps to give a plumper appearance to skin, decrease and prevent fine wrinkling and even out skin tone.

Hartman explained that retinols have a lower concentration of retinoic acid. This means they work more gradually, and are therefore less irritating than retinoids. The trade-off here is that while retinols are less irritating, results will take longer. Retinoids, on the other hand, have a higher concentration of retinoic acid. Since retinoic acid is the active form, retinoids can get to work on the skin faster. The results from a retinoid are more dramatic, but there’s a higher risk of experiencing dryness, redness, peeling and irritation as your skin adjusts to the product.

Dr. Annie Gonzalez, board-certified Miami dermatologist of Riverchase Dermatology, noted that starting with a retinol is a good way to introduce your skin to this type of product, and that you can eventually work up to a prescription retinoid.

Moisturizer to the rescue

When it comes to pairing a moisturizer with a prescription retinoid, Hartman recommends looking for bland moisturizers with ceramides, hyaluronic acid or humectants, but no other active ingredients. In other words, keep it simple.

In terms of application, you have a few options to choose from, depending on how dry or sensitive your skin is. If you can tolerate it, Sarkar instructs patients to use the retinoid and then apply a moisturizer over it after a few minutes or 30 minutes later. If your skin is sensitive, she recommends mixing your retinoid with moisturizer in a 1:1 ratio.

For people with more sensitive skin, Sarkar recommends the retinoid sandwich technique, in which you apply a layer of moisturizer, then your retinoid, then moisturizer on top of the retinoid. Lastly, if you have super sensitive skin, she recommends applying your retinoid and then washing it off after 30 minutes. Afterward, apply your moisturizer generously.

“You can mix and match any of these,” Sarkar said. “I choose to mix in a 1:1 ratio, right now my treatment of choice is the Belif True Cream.”

Remember that you might experience some minor flakiness or irritation the first few weeks after starting a retinoid. This is normal and should pass within a week or so. But be sure to contact your dermatologist if it persists for longer.

Dermatologist-approved moisturizers to pair with prescription retinoids

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