In the world of journalism, reporters and sources dance a delicate tango, feeling each other out for better information and better coverage.
On Thursday night, the alcohol industry elevated the ritual to a new level of lavishness. Big Booze held its first ever State of the Alcohol Industry briefing at the National Press Club in Washington, D.C. -- site of the very first liquor license issued after the repeal of prohibition -- followed by a booze-soaked reception.
It was, at once, an educational affair about one of the most profitable industries in the country and a rather direct tug at a reporter's heart. After all, journalists have a reputation for imbibing, a professional mythology that they're eager to uphold. And, on that night, they were treated to the ultimate prize, provided that they were willing to sit through a few industry pitches.
Craig Wolf, president of event host Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America, delivered a message repeated by his cohorts: The alcohol industry is strong, but not immune to market pitfalls. "The myth that people drink more during a recession is just that, a myth," said Mark Brown, the CEO of Sazerac Company. "The problem we face right now is the population of the United States is not exactly in a festive mood."
If the country needed a good economic boost, spirits, wine and beer might just be the engine to deliver it, added Wolf.
"It was the rebirth of the beverage alcohol industry that helped lead us out of the Great Depression," Wolf said during the briefing. "And I can ensure you that the vitality of the beverage alcohol industry today is just as important in helping to lead this nation out of the Great Recession. That's because beverage alcohol is a profit leader."
So far this year, the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers spent $820,000 lobbying policymakers on all manner of tax, trade, labor and rulemaking issues. The National Beer Wholesalers added an additional $700,000, and the Distilled Spirits Council has spent a whopping $3.5 million. It was probably cheaper to put the media under the influence, though organizers spared no expense setting up Thursday's event.
To wit: a ballroom equipped with four bar stations serving high-end drinks. A mob formed around the Johnnie Walker table, which offered a tasting "progression" of increasingly expensive whiskeys, starting with the upscale, pure malt Green Label and culminating with a shot of $200-a-bottle Blue Label.
In another corner, a wine station featuring three reds (a Graffigan from Argentina, a King Estate from Oregon and a Veeder from Napa) to complement the three whites (a Chateau Ste. Michelle from Columbia Valley, a Wild Horse from Santa Maria Valley and a Brancott from Marlborough, New Zealand). There was a Hennessy tasting station, with four distinct brands. And in the holiday spirit, one bar served Gingerbread Cookie martinis: a mix of Absolut Vanilla Vodka, Hiram Walker Gingerbread Liqueur, Kahlua Coffee Liqueur and half and half. And if that weren't enough, the wholesalers had a massive squared-shaped bar constructed in the middle of the room serving standard drinks in addition to high-end whiskey: Buffalo Trace, Sazerac Rye, Blanton's, Rain Organics and Eagle Rare.
"They built a booze house, and I think it's great," remarked Bill Chappell of National Public Radio. Likewise, Huffington Post reporters partook.
Reporters can maintain their sense of objectivity even as their other senses become impaired. But Thursday night's affair illustrates the sweeteners that industries and sources often offer as a means of subtly influencing coverage of their issues. Over free drinks, lobbyists mentioned potential free trips, such as a trek on the "Whiskey trail" through Kentucky and Tennessee. Another reporter mentioned that an industry insider discussed sending her to an event in Las Vegas.
Amidst it all, people soaked up the liquor with non-stop food, including trays of crab cakes with red pepper dressing, shrimp with mango sauce, spanakopita as well as a roast beef and a risotto station. The room grew increasingly crowded -- dozens of journalists attended the reception, compared to the handful who actually went to the briefing. Wolf offered a brief toast during the festivities.
"It's important," he said, "that the beverage and alcohol industry have a good relationship with the media."