What does Cava mean to most consumers? Most people agree that Cava is thought of like Prosecco... a fun to drink, cheap sparkler. This imagery has become an increasingly difficult topic for the high quality producers of Cava in the Penedes region where most Cava is made. This issue is a deep fundamental issue regarding the quality of wine from all great winemaking regions that is being debated in Penedes right now. The French call it "Terroir". The Spaniards call it Terruño.¨ The meaning of terruño is the combination of the climate, the soil, and the landscape. For a region, sub-region, or area to show unique terruño, is the foundation to producing wine that is special because of the place it grows.
Some of the top producers of Cava have begun to separate themselves from the term "Cava" because the term alone does not define a place, nor a definable quality level. Although 95% of Cava is produced in Cataluña, there is no law defining Cava to only Penedes D.O. within Cataluña. Therefore, the top producers feel they have to make a marketing separation, clearly defining the difference between Cava and "Classic Penedes".
Another impediment is 95% of all Cava is produced by three behemoth producers, with the two most commonly recognized being Freixenet and Cordorniu. Their controls on the region have almost been total. The differences in quality between some of the artisinal producers and the giants, is of both quality, and emphasis between a commercial product and an artisinal product. Price vs quality to the consumer is unclear, if there is not a distinction in the methods of production, and reasons for the price differences.
There are obstacles " Classic Penedes" faces. Cava, for all of the flaws the catchall title brings, is one of the most recognizable wine types of Spain. The obstacle comes full circle, when the question is asked, "For what is it known for?" Unfortunately,today, the perception is still cheap sparkling wine.
Classic Penedes Criteria
The new categorization allows for more stringent regulations to "Classic Penedes".
Some of the key requirements are:
*The grapes must be organic.
*The full winemaking process, from tirage to disgorgement must take place in the bottle, and in the cellars registered at the D.O. (Denomination of Origin)
* The entire winemaking process from tirage to disgorgement must take 15 months for all Sparkling D.O. Penedes wines from the 2013 vintage on.
*The use of CO2 is prohibited, as is its storage in a cellar where sparkling wine is produced without the consent of the Regulating Council of the D.O.
* The Regulating Council used a variant of the expression "Methode Champanois", or "Traditional Method", by calling these wines "Ancestral". This means that only the grape's sugars, and under no circumstances, any others, may be used to make the base wine.
*Sparkling D.O. Penedes wines must be aged at least 4 years after tirage, and must use a natural cork.
*Other areas of quality that are regulated are: alcohol minimum levels (11% by volume, and a maximum of 13%.) Total acidity is measured. Volatile acidity is measured. Sulphur Dioxide content is measured as is defined in E.C. regulations covering Organic Sparkling wines.
* The identifiers for levels of residual sugar are conceptually similar (and therefore easy to understand) as Champagne. From driest to sweetest, they are; Brut Natural, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Sec, Sec, Semi-sec, and Dolc.
A major concern is the lax allowance of too many grape varietals allowed in "Classic Penedes". Along with the very classic Penedes grapes; Macabeu, Xarel-lo, and Parellada; are Chardonnay, Malavasia de Sitges, Muscat d'Alexandria, Red Grenache, Carignan, Sumoll, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc, Gewurtztraminer, and Riesling. Currently they are all permitted. Rightfully, I believe if there is to be a classic from Penedes, whose stated purpose is to show off the terruño, would also be thought to from their classic grapes. Most of the wineries who are in "Classic Penedes" are using the traditional grapes, but the rules do not state they must. I still feel this is an area that needs to be cleaned up.
If this movement for Classic Penedes is successful in creating separation from cheap Cava, a next likely steps would be for the sub-regions and best vineyards to be recognized in small production bottlings that highlight the terruño they are looking to promote. I believe in the movement of "Classic Penedes", and I am anxious to follow where the movement leads. Within the Bodegas that have already made the commitment, lie some of the greatest Sparkling wines of Spain. They also rank with some of the great sparkling wines of the world. They have taken a daring and bold step. I look forward to the future of "Classic Penedes".
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