It seems like only a couple of months since I last came to you with news of fashion week here in New York, but it has been five months almost to the day. The cyclical repetition of this particular industry has always amazed me. A designer shows their Spring/Summer collections in September. February brings with it the Fall/Winter collections, and May is all about Resort, that little placeholder of a collection for those who actually need warm weather clothes in the cold months, which I sometimes do, but for which I don't need a designer to create an entire collection from which to choose an outfit, but I digress...
With this showing of the Fall/Winter 2009 season, the jubilation that usually accompanies the shows has been replaced by a bittersweet anticipation of an industry, a city, and a country marred by a failing economy. With widespread budget cuts and uncertain financial futures, designers are making drastic changes and cutting "couture" corners to ensure fiscal success. This season it seems to be Fashion Weak as opposed to Fashion Week.
Beginning late last year, we started to see a shift in designers' plans. Peter Som canceled his show after ending his business relationship with Lord & Taylor's Creative Design Studio, but then he returned onto the week's schedule with a self-financed capsule collection shown by appointment only. Sari Gueron, who has been showing her collection since Spring 2005, canceled a mere 8 days before her show was meant to take place, opting for more intimate and cost-effective showroom appointments. Others who have chosen to show via presentation include Vera Wang, Carmen Marc Valvo, Reem Acra and Betsey Johnson.
Most scandalously, Marc Jacobs, whose show is the ONLY one to attend every season, cut his show invites from 2000 people to just 700 of the top tier editors and retailers.
Even Halston, the label that was brought back from the dead via a life line from The Weinstein Company has opted to forgo the traditional runway show and will feature a digital music video instead. The video focuses on a cool urban woman as she floats from uptown to downtown taking in multiple vignettes across the city showcasing Halston's fall collection. Editors, retailers and guests who would have normally attended the show received an email teaser for the video earlier this week and today, the video will be emailed in its entirety, officially debuting the collection and throwing Halston head first into the viral marketing arena.
With more and more designers moving their shows out of the tents, where costs can exceed $500,000 for just one show, the rise of formal presentations displayed on static models or mannequins is inevitable.
Fashion publicist David Gruning doesn't think that this is always the most cost efficient alternative. "A presentation can cost just as much as an actual fashion show in the tents if not produced with special attention to cost cutting. With a presentation, you have to accommodate for lighting, audio/visual, seating, backstage, rolling racks, tables, mirrors, bathrooms and so forth whereas in the tents everything is already provided you. If you don't have the proper financial backing or sponsorship, those costs can really add up."
On the other end of the spectrum though, we are also seeing designers pumping large amounts of money into their labels to help keep themselves and the economy afloat in times of hardship.
Yohji Yamamoto's sportswear line for Adidas, Y-3, has been known as one of the most expensive shows of the season since it started showing here back in 2006. This year is no different with close to 1000 people invited to Pier 40 to view a show whose production design is known to rival some of Broadway's greatest displays.
Another great showman and well-respected designer, Tommy Hilfiger, has always put on an elaborate spectacle where no expense is spared...from endlessly flowing champagne to live performances by N.E.R.D. to exactly 100 models sent down the runway in celebration of his 20th anniversary.
This season's economic eyes are on Hilfiger. With the complete rebirth of the collection just over four seasons ago, we saw an overhaul in the brand. Now, we are waiting to see just how the designer with a knack for flair and luxurious consumption will keep it current in a time of financial fortuity.
Today, Friday the 13th, marks the beginning of this week, Fall/Winter 2009. Should you be scared? I'm not, so keep checking in with me all week long because I'll be keeping you abreast of all that's happening here in Manhattan. From the shows to the parties and to the rest of it all. I'll be here.