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International Travel: Hearty Swabian Specialties at Restaurant Wiesenstein in Berlin

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Walk ten minutes south of the jostle of the amazing KaDeWe department store and you're in another Berlin: Viktoria-Luise Platz is a leafy hexagon in the residential neighborhood of Schöneberg. On it is Wiesenstein, a welcoming restaurant that serves food from the owners' native Swabia (which overlaps the more familiar state of Bavaria). And what might that be? Many things, including interesting sausages, but the standout is variations on what the British would call stodge and marathon runners carbs: A recent menu listed 10 spaetzle dishes, 11 kinds of maultaschen (filled pockets, in the vein of super-sized pan-crisped ravioli) and three fingerknödel options (as the name indicates, finger-shaped - and nearly finger-sized - dumplings). Spaetzle with lentils and sliced sausage are traditional, and so are maultaschen filled with blood sausage. It's all hearty in the extreme, so skip the appetizers and adopt a wait-and-see attitude on dessert. It's also inexpensive: You're unlikely to spend more than €25 a head here, with plenty of wine. There's another branch in the Steglitz area, a little further to the south-west on the road to Potsdam.

Wiesenstein. Viktoria-Luise-Platz 12a, Berlin 10777; +49 (0) 30 219 124 05; and Rothenburgstrasse 41, Steglitz, Berlin 12163; +49 (0) 30 797 857 50; http://wiesenstein.de/; wiesenstein@gmx.de

Hearty Swabian Specialties at Restaurant Wiesenstein in Berlin