Just over an hour's drive from San Antonio is the "town" of Luckenbach, Texas. I was visiting Fredericksburg, Texas (there for the luscious wines of Hill Country), but many of the locals encouraged me to pop over for a visit to Luckenbach, where everybody's somebody. It must have character, being just over nine acres and two buildings, right?
The dance hall at Luckenbach
Promised some live music in the dance hall and a chuckwagon dinner, I was intrigued and happy to explore this relic steeped in history. The dance hall was full of energy with the band belting out songs everyone could sing along to. Good thing I packed my boots and jean jacket! Visitors were weaving their way inside and outside, some dancing, some dining on the basic but tasty fare, and some exploring what lies inside building number two.
Luckenbach's oldest building is a combination general store and post office, opened in 1849. As time went on, the population dwindled to a ghost town. Though the general store remained, the post office closed in 1971 and its zip code retired. Luckenbach was purchased in 1970 for $30,000 by Hondo Crouch, a rancher and Texas folklorist, who aimed to revive it but it never quite became the bustling town he dreamed of.
The bar at Luckenbach
Curiosity got the better of me and I had to see what the fuss with the general store was about. Lots of souvenirs and trinkets are available for purchase, but what caught my attention was the music, not from the concert hall, but coming from the back of the store. I walked all the way to the back and down a narrow passageway of steps and to my surprise I'd entered a bar. Adorned with memorabilia (license plates, badges, dollar bills, etc) in every nook and cranny, I stood in wonder for a moment, taking it all in. In the center is a small, wood burning stove, probably as old as the building itself.
To my right, were a group of four riffing on guitars, who appeared to be regulars. Making my way to the bar, a resident cat looked me over and deciding I was worthy of being there, went back to sleep. Next, I was greeted by the friendly bartender, and some of the gregarious folks engaged me in conversation. I'm sure they could tell I was a newbie at this bar but they welcomed me, even offering to buy me a beer. A refreshing change from modern discussions, I could tell this a place where you leave political correctness at the door, and that’s a good thing.
You never know what you’ll find at this one-of-a-kind Texas speakeasy
Don't expect chic decor, the latest craft beer or fancy cocktails like a modern speakeasy - this is history after all. Do expect convivial folks who are happy to share their covert space while you soak up Luckenbach’s ambiance.
Malika Bowling is the author of Culinary Atlanta: Guide to the Best Restaurants, Markets, Breweries and More!, and founder of Roamilicious. Malika also has served as a judge at various culinary competitions and food festivals, including Taste of Atlanta. Her podcast, Just a Byte, can be downloaded from iTunes. Follow her on Twitter @MalikaBowling and Instagram.