This New Year's Eve is going to be a very formal one - I'm feeling this! Although there's been a lot of talk about tuxedo trends, it's usually focused on the red carpet, what celebrities wear as they take to the stage receiving an award or even just presenting sets trends in fashion, and this year is no different. It's not just about the tuxedo; it's about the overall look.
What's being worn at the Oscars and Golden Globes has a lot of influence on what's in and what's out. Who's wearing what cut, color and style sets trends whether we like it or not. Thankfully, I'm seeing a nod to the classic, elegantly dressed man and what Forest Whitaker, Jeremy Piven and Jamie Foxx wear may not be exactly your formal wear style, having dressed all three and many others for the red carpet, I like the way it's looking.
When it's time to dress formally it doesn't need to be one and the same with a celebrity, but a little insight may help you decide what you buy and how you dress; especially with New Year's right around the corner your attire may need an update and it's better to build your wardrobe correctly by buying the right coat and tie, and spending a little extra money for pieces you'll have forever. A proper wardrobe is one where you look in the closet and think, what should I wear, I have so many great pieces to choose from, and that's different than a closet filled with clothes where you look inside and think, I don't have anything to wear.
Building a wardrobe takes time, starting with suits (black, navy and pinstripe), then blazers and sweaters, shirts and pants and of course great shoes and accessories. Depending on how often you dress formally will tell you when you need to buy a tuxedo, but in most instances, it should be done at the same time you buy your suits.
Dressing formally has more than one option, it isn't only the tuxedo. A smart wool and silk dinner jacket is extremely elegant with a pair of your favorite black pants. The black suit can also look right with a peak lapel with hand-stitched edges in a slightly different color accent; I like dark grey on black.
The cut of the tuxedo's lapel and the shirt worn with it tell a lot about your personal style and confidence. The three most common are a peak lapel, a notch lapel and a shawl lapel. Try on each before making the decision. Stay away from a satin lapel, it's very American versus European and I personally lean toward European with grosgrain. After all, I was born and raised in Italy just outside of Bari. Aside from my background, grosgrain will give your tuxedo more texture and depth, and remember every waiter will be wearing a tuxedo with a satin lapel.
The small details of a tuxedo make a difference, meaning what fabric is used on the edges of the pocket, on the waistband and the buttons on the sleeve, do they really button or are they just for show. Well, definitely once again, go for grosgrain versus satin and a little insider tip: the sign of a custom-made tuxedo is that the sleeve buttons are real.
Classic black is always a safe color bet, but midnight blue or dark gray can be very chic, and white - especially for the Caribbean or other warm areas. If you're confident and feel comfortable wearing a tuxedo without a tie, go for it, but definitely wear the right shirt - a classic shirt with at least a two button collar, preferably a three button collar so it sits higher than the standard collar on the neck. The style of the classic tuxedo shirt you wear also has distinct style lineage - the European style has a piquet front and the American style has a pleated front. The white shirt is an easy choice, but make it more modern by wearing a dark shirt; black with a black tuxedo or dinner jacket, navy with a navy blue tuxedo or dinner jacket or charcoal grey with a deep grey tuxedo or dinner jacket. You may be surprised at what look works best for your body type and makes you feel most confident.
The classic bow tie, one you tie yourself, not the pre-knotted, has a definite role to play in the beginning of the night and at the end of the evening when you loosen the tie after midnight, unbutton your shirt collar, remove your jacket and continue to party. You can have a very casual appearance, but still a chic and elegant look - very "Thomas Crown Affair"! The pre-knotted tie goes in the pocket, not very chic! Only, and this is a definite only, at New Year's should you ever wear a bow tie with any sparkle thread woven into it...again...only at New Year's!
And since it's a once a year type of party and it's always best to be prepared, your socks can only be dark colors. They must also be thin and only silk - always. You never want your ankles to show, be sure they go to your knee. And your underwear must be in silk - who knows where you'll end up or with whom.
DV's ABC's:
A. Your bow tie should always match your waistband. Stick with a dark color - a lighter waistband, even if you're a slight bit overweight, will make your waist bigger.
B. Your watch has to be thin, the thinner it is the more dressy it is, the more dressy, the more elegant. But, then again, if you have a big watch, wear it with an alligator band. It will more than make up for its size and look exceptionally chic with patent leather and velvet shoes.
C. Your cufflinks and studs need to be dressy. No matter what shirt you wear, you can't go wrong with onyx or black diamond studs. To have studs you need to be wearing a French cuff tuxedo shirt and if you don't own one find one that has both buttonholes and stud holes in the front and both buttonholes and cufflink holes on the sleeve.
D. Your tuxedo style may be the single-breasted tuxedo with one, two or three buttons or the double-breasted with what's called a four on six or two on four button. The single breasted is probably clear. It's the double breasted that may need some explanation, but in short, four on six means four of the buttons are working, same for two on four with two of the buttons actually working. The other buttons are decorative to round off the look.
E. Your fabric can be of wool, dupioni silk, linen and mohair. Velvet is a great option and it's very big on ready to wear with a peak lapel in single breast. Just stay away from blends, they don't wear well year after year. Instead, make the investment to buy the right thing from the start.
F. Your pocket square is there to help you dry any perspiration so it needs to be linen, and only linen regardless of the season, since it's the only fabric that's absorbent.
G. Your shoes need to be loafers in patent leather with velvet on top, no lace ups. Even in the summer there needs to be a velvet element to your shoe.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
