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It's Time to Start Fry-Baking Your Eggs

Sometimes we feel like another photograph of perfectly stacked French toast might send us over the edge. Call it brunch fatigue. But then came, today's podcast guest and the creator of jam-and-ricotta-smothered brioche toast and deep-fried brown rice "Kabbouleh" that renewed our faith in mid-afternoon hangover feasts.
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For Bon Appetit, by Christina Chaey.

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Photo by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott

Sometimes we feel like another photograph of perfectly stacked French toast might send us over the edge. Call it brunch fatigue. But then came Jessica Koslow, today's podcast guest and the creator of jam-and-ricotta-smothered brioche toast and deep-fried brown rice "Kabbouleh" that renewed our faith in mid-afternoon hangover feasts. Although Koslow's Los Angeles café Sqirl has a reputation for ditching convention when it comes to breakfast and lunch, you can still add perfectly-cooked eggs to pretty much everything on the menu, from rice bowls to hashes to salads.

Replicating Koslow's perfect eggs at home is simple: She calls her technique "fry-baking," and it solves the age-old issue of how to cook eggs so the whites are fully cooked through (as in: NOT translucent and weirdly mucus-y), there are no brown spots, and the yolks are still runny. Important.

Here's what you do: Cook your eggs in an ovenproof skillet (like cast iron) on the stove. When you see the whites start to set, pop the whole thing in a 350° oven for a minute or so, just until the whites are cooked through. Use to top avocado toast, a breakfast hash, or anything else you deem worth of such egg wizardry.

Hear more from Koslow about how the restaurant began, and then stay tuned for a segment on summer wines with columnist Marissa A. Ross, in our latest podcast.

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