Weeks three and four of the 2017 Mongol Rally are in the books. From Azerbaijan, across the Caspian Sea, into Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan - here is a photo recap of the last two weeks!
I was crossing Turkmenistan last week, where internet is severely restricted so I combined the last two weeks into one update. Below are some photos and stories of what went down. After a delay in getting an Authorization Code in time from the Iranian Foreign Ministry, and only being allowed into Turkmenistan for 5 days I decided the best course of action was to head into Azerbaijan and cross the Caspian Sea by boat. Having not planned on visiting Azerbaijan, I had to spend three days waiting around Tbilisi, Georgia until my Azerbaijani visa was approved. At least we found a “Texas Pub” to pass the time! No one in the pub had ever visited Texas, and their conception of the state was strictly based on movies. So a fun time was had by all.
We then booked it across Azerbaijan down to the port Baku. A few American cigarettes to the ferry load master ensured us a spot on the ferry and got us to the very front with some other rally cars.
The Turkmenistan ferry was a complete mess, sitting in the port for nearly a day before setting sail across the Caspian. Seeing the sunrise over the water and Turkmenistan on the horizon was a welcomed sight.
After nearly three days stuck in a port, on a boat, and crossing the Caspian - we finally made it to Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan and began the drive towards the capital city Ashgabat.
The country is essentially a dictatorship, with everything from communications to human rights being restricted. The capital city of Ashgabat is one of the strangest cities I have ever been in, with elaborate squares, statues and fountains... but no one to be seen.
I got a chance to catch up on the news. Their national newspaper features nothing but article after article about their “president” Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow.
After spending a day wandering around the empty city, we had a visit to World of Turkmenbashi Tales, the destination amusement park their last president built by leveling neighborhoods in the center of town. We were the only guests in the entire park. No lines!
After leaving Ashgabat, we continued on into the Karakum desert. Passing many wild camels, caravanning their way through the desert. These camels were left after the silk road ceased trading, and continued living on in the desert.
We ran into some car trouble in the middle of the desert. 115 degree temperatures, only hot water to drink, and no clouds in sight, I was able to fix the car and get us back on the road... after a local towed us out of the sand.
The Darvaza Gas Crater, known lovingly as the “Gate to Hell” is located deep in the Karakum Desert. After a soviet drilling accident during the USSR’s reign, the crater has been burning nonstop for decades.
It’s even more amazing at night... Don’t get too close though, if you fall in there is no getting out.
After a night in the desert next to the crater, we continued on through the Karakum Desert and into Uzbekistan. Crossing part of what used to be the Aral Sea.
Visiting the new ghost town of Muynak, what was once a bustling fishing city is now dried up. The remains of the fishing ships sitting quietly in the desert now.
Continuing on through Uzbekistan, we followed the old silk road into the oasis city of Khiva.
Wandering around the city, there is a small staircase on the eastern side of the citadel that allows you to get up onto the walls. Giving you an excellent view over once bustling trading town to watch the sunset from.
Continuing on along the silk road, our next stop was the old city of Bukhara. With their elaborate mosques, and madrasas - this is one of the holiest cities in Uzbekistan.
We ended up in Samarkand, the once capital of the region - where the conquerer Amir Timur would launch his military campaigns from. A view up at the ceiling of his mausoleum, his tomb quietly sits beneath the huge gleaming dome.
This next week will see us crossing from Tajikistan, into the Pamir Mountains along Afghanistan - follow along HERE! Check up on our location, or even send us a message!