Helmet Hair, Monochromatic Makeup And Greige Nails At Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012: Backstage Beauty

Hair and makeup at Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012 show. Photo: GoRunway.com

THE INSPIRATION: Contemporary Korean artist Kim Joon; color-blocking and spring shades

HAIR: Wella Professionals Global Creative Director Eugene Souleiman's influence was simple: color. "I just like the fact that they were splashes of color in the collection and Narciso [Rodriguez] wanted color. He showed me a pink and I was like 'no no, no... we've seen that before," said Souleiman. "I thought we should color the girls' hair in the strongest color found in their outfit."

Souleiman pulled hair off the face into a off-centered, French twist that resembled a bizarre cycling helmet. He sprayed tons of Wella Professionals Hairspray really close to the scalp, building the product like a gel to comb through and give a wet appearance. Then he spritzed the crown of models' strands with Kryolan Color Spray in white, lavender or green hues.

He added, "This is the strongest look I've ever done for Narciso and I'm so proud of him for wanting to try something. I think it takes balls especially when you're a very successful designer."

Hair at Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012 show. Photo: GoRunway.com

MAKEUP: Dick Page, Shiseido's Artistic Director, decided to go really intense with monochromatic makeup to balance out the cool hair colors. He evened out models' complexion with minimal foundation and used a fluff brush to sweep a brown-rose creamy shadow onto the lids and lips. Then he added Shiseido Shimmering Rouge Lipstick RD713 on their pouts. To finish, he groomed eyebrows to naturally frame the face with a custom color mix of sable, leather and caviar eyeshadows.

NAILS: "Over the last few season, Narciso's woman has really evolved into someone who really has a point of view about her nails," said celebrity manicurist Deborah Lippmann. So, the nail maven and designer decided to dress the models fingers and toes in Deborah Lippmann's Waking Up in Vegas, a gorgeous, putty gray shade.

Lippmann painted two coats of the nail color onto short rounded digits and sealed with Addicted to Speed -- her personal and backstage must-have to achieve a super-shiny finish.

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