Volcán de Agua
Semana Santa in Antigua, Guatemala
Somehow, we have a history of slow traveling in Catholic strongholds during Lent. First it was Granada, Spain, and later San Miguel de Allende. Our most recent experience was the celebration of Semana Santa in Antigua, Guatemala, said to rank only behind Seville, Spain, in its grandeur. We understood the themes and timeline for our third celebration, and you can see Antigua is a spectacular setting for the pageantry and the historical storytelling of Holy Week and Easter season.
Setting
Three large volcanoes dominate the horizon around Antigua. To the south is the Volcán de Agua or “Volcano of Water,” 3766 meters (12,356 ft) high. To the west of the city is a pair of peaks, Acatenango, last erupted in 1972, 3976 meters (13,045 ft) high, and the Volcán de Fuego or “Volcano of Fire,” 3763 meters (12,346 ft) high. Fuego is famous for being almost constantly active at a low level.
Background
Holy Week (Latin: Hebdomas Sancta or Hebdomas Maior, “Greater Week” in Christianity) is the last week of Lent and the week before Easter. This year it is April 9–15.
The week begins with Palm Sunday (Passion Sunday); we all know that one. Not so familiar, Holy Monday (or Fig Monday), Holy Tuesday and Holy Wednesday (sometimes called Spy Wednesday). This quickly gets complicated for many of us. Toward the end of the week things heat up, there is Maundy (Holy) Thursday and of course Good Friday. On Holy Saturday the celebration of Easter begins after sundown. Easter Vigil is the longest and most solemn of the Catholic Church’s Masses, lasting up to three or four hours.
Holy Week Re-enacted
What made Semana Santa in Antigua unique to other celebrations we have witnessed is their use of alfombras, carpets created out of colored sawdust, decorated with flowers, fruit, pine needles, etc., into amazing designs.
Alfombras created in advance of processions
Close up view
Work on the alfombras began during the night and were completed in time for the procession. In essence, the processions represent the Easter Passion, the story between the Last Supper and the Resurrection. After the procession passes, the carpets are swept away in minutes.
Here is a procession passing by Antigua Guatemala Cathedral on Maundy Thursday (commemorates the Maundy — the ceremony of washing the feet of the poor — and the Last Supper of Jesus Christ) in the main plaza.
Beneath it all is the devotion of those carrying these massive pasos through narrow streets and throngs of people. The entire scene is alive with color and sound. Emotions are stirred by the slow rhythmic beating of the drums and mournful sound of trumpets.
A pasos can weigh up to 6 tons and is carried by up to 40 people
Remember, this goes on for several nights and into the early morning hours. The crowds are enormous. Even to a non-believer, this historic event repeated year after year for centuries has no real parallel.
With this background, let’s put it together with sound and music…
Additional scenes from Holy Week in Antigua, Guatemala:
La Merced Palm Sunday
Bystanders
Near our apartment the neighborhood alfombras being prepared with cloud-circled, Volcán de Fuego looming.
Women’s procession
Easter Sunday, tres hijos coming home
Betsy and Mark Blondin have traveled and lived in diverse places in Latin America and Europe during the last six years, meeting expats with wonderful stories that inspired their latest book: At Home Abroad: Today’s Expats Tell Their Stories. They have three grown children and enjoy the slow-travel lifestyle. Betsy is a freelance editor and Mark is a data storage consultant. Join them at TodaysExpats.com or on Facebook at At Home Abroad.
#Guatemala #Antigua #SemanaSanta #HolyWeek #Easter # Travel