For Epicurious, by Joe Sevier.
In an ideal world, we’d always celebrate our kids’ and loved ones’ birthdays and special occasions with elaborate, many-tiered, jaw-dropping cakes made from scratch. But in real life, we sometimes have weeks when, try as we might, there’s just no way we’re getting a dozen pink cupcakes out for Stella’s school bake sale, or making a Captain Underpants cake for Max’s big day without a little help.
If you’re one of those foresight types, you probably have a batch of homemade cake mix lying around in wait for weeks like this. But for the rest of us, there’s boxed cake mix. Fortunately, the boxed cake mix options have gotten way more enticing in recent years. There are organic cake mixes, gluten-free cake mixes, non-GMO cake mixes, cake mixes made without allergens, even cake mixes made with “ancient grains.”
Which is all well in good, but we wanted to know how each shrewdly marketed healthy cake mix tastes. With that in mind, we gathered a few white and yellow boxed cake mixes that advertise “healthier,” all-natural ingredients and tested them with one parameter in mind: does it actually taste good? Here are the results of our healthy cake mix taste test:
Health claims: Organic, GMO-free, no trans-fats, no hydrogenated oils
But did it taste good? We found this cake to be a little bit dry, but that’s nothing that taking it out of the oven a few seconds earlier, or adding a surefire cake moist-maker couldn’t fix. As far as taste, this one would be a great backdrop to whatever other flavors you’re planning to add — and we do suggest adding flavor via a fruity filling or a chocolatey icing. It’s solid boxed cake fare.
Health claims: Made with only six ingredients, organic, GMO-free, made with “wholesome” biodynamic sugar, direct sourcing, Sarah Michelle Gellar
But did it taste good? Despite the staffs’ collective love for Sarah Michelle, this cake wasn’t one of our favorites. First, we would have preferred it a bit fluffier in texture. Second, it was too sweet for our tastes — and we were tasting without any icing or glaze. After adding either of those sugary toppings, we have to imagine it would be overpoweringly sweet. If you’re an icing-free person, however, I have two things to say: I do not understand you at all, and this cake is perfectly suited to your weird food preferences.
Health claims: Organic, no trans-fats
But did it taste good? This cake was fine. Once frosted and prettied up, we certainly wouldn’t turn it down. But there was something about it that was just...well, strange. We couldn’t figure it out until our resident pastry guru, Kat Sacks, noted that “it has the texture of store-bought corn muffins.” Indeed.
Health claims: Organic, GMO-free, made with ancient grains (including spelt and kamut), partially sweetened with coconut sugar
But did it taste good?: Coconut sugar and ancient-grain flours give this cake a distinctive taste. Kat found the baked cake bit oily, but on the whole it was the clear staff favorite. That said, none of us would choose it for a “classic birthday cake” experience. It has a nutty flavor and a grainy sort of look that’s not what you’d expect from the standard yellow cake. It’s also the most expensive of the lot. That said, if you’re prepared to let go of your preconceived birthday cake notions and just want a delicious and easy cake (with some potentially nutritional beneficial attributes), go for it.
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