Lula Cellars’ cozy tasting room
Some will assume that exploring Anderson Valley is not worth driving an hour northwest of Healdsburg, but the great wines and the scenic, rolling hills reward intrepid wine tasters. And if you begin from Mendocino or Sea Ranch, this is a sure bet for pinot noir aficionados.
The earliest vineyards in the 1970's were planted with typical Alsatian grapes, Gewurztraminer, pinot gris and muscat blanc. But since the 1990's, the suitability of the hills and climate to pinot noir as well as its popularity has led to it being the dominant grape in the valley. Winemakers now produce exceptional pinot noir wines in styles similar to Willamette Valley and Burgundy.
With 66 wineries dotted along 15 miles from Navarro to Boonville, it's easy to visit many tasting rooms in a day from 10-5. These are my general notes at the five we tried from NW to SE.
Lula Cellars:
Tasting room is modest, greeted by friendly lab. Dan Reed is funny and knowledgeable, pouring generously and often waiving the $5 tasting fee. Riedel stemware. Tasty, well made wines; we compared four pinot noirs (No-Rs). Wine club is flexible, however the member likes it.
Roederer Estate:
Professional, high volume tasting room. Servers were aloof, with perfunctory descriptions, but ours knew her stuff when drawn out. The large distribution Brut MV and Brut Rose are very nice; L'Ermitage 2009 is more serious, drier. $10 tasting fee.
Navarro Vineyards:
Cozy tasting room, one-on-one knowledgeable server, Free tasting; We tried nine wines, all good. Predominantly white Alsatian grapes like Gewurztraminer, dry Riesling; 2013 "Deep end" blend is best pinot noir.
Toulouse Vineyards:
Modest tasting room, friendly and well-versed server. Vern is winemaker. Pinot noirs are the best we enjoyed in Anderson Valley. 2011 is like burgundy and Willamette; 2012 and beyond has added Pommard clone, so fuller bodied. May join club when we use up some of our Willamette Valley wines. Nice Gewurztraminer. $5 tasting fee.
Baxter Winery:
Modern, spartan tasting room. Claire Baxter pours and is pretty knowledgeable. Wines are made to show off the fruit, not manipulate the flavors. Good pinot noir, also making nebbiolo, carignan, Montepulciano de Abruzzo. Too tiny and priced too high to join club. $10 tasting fee.