He was pronounced dead at the scene on a beach in Santa Cruz County.
The surfer and her husband, Adam Dirks, have two sons, Tobias and Wesley.
Chandler Moore is "totally" ready to go surfing again despite the shocking encounter.
Big-wave surfer Bianca Valenti has led the fight for gender equity in the highly dangerous sport.
Propelled by her love of big wave surfing, Bianca Valenti changed surf competitions to be more inclusive of women.
The Christmas Eve tradition began in 2009 when surfer George Trosset saw a Honda ad featuring surfers in Santa suits.
Maya Gabeira broke the Guinness World Record for the largest wave surfed by a woman.
You'll laugh, you'll howl.
"I got a present from God," the gutsy surfer said at a World Surf League ceremony.