I have written about Le Périgord several times over the past four decades and I find that I could pretty much reprint what I said four years ago or ten years ago about this great bastion of French cuisine in NYC, whose competitors once numbered a score of such places with names like Lutèce, La Caravelle, Le Cygne and Le Pavillon, all long gone.
Fine cuisine is alive and well in the school lunchrooms of France. The menu includes lamb tajine, veal, crêpes, organic veggies, pâté and organic bread. Oh, yes -- and a cheese course.
Because fried cheese > grilled cheese.