In summary, the passion and persistence of grit motivates and carries us over rough seas like a well-made surfboard. We can think of an absence of effort like a crack in our surfboard that needs repair.
Before surfers went mainstream, they were a group of rebels who just wanted to have fun.
Surfing as we know it will never be the same again.
Sometimes, surfing is more guts than glory.
Walter Munk and Harald Sverdrup. http://library.ucsd.edu/dc/object/bb81582389 Munk was also the first to determine why only
Rareform "approached me. They'd seen 'It's Not Warming It's Dying' ... They called and said they had this program where they
From that point, we were introduced to one of the most unique companies I have ever been witness to, (and I meet A LOT of
Surfers tackled 40-foot rolling walls of ocean in one of the largest swells for years.
Thanks, virtual reality!