If you like, you can de-Sinicize this dish, replacing the lard with olive oil and the ginger with a couple of anchovies and
Now's the time to get your fill of juicy, fresh-off-the-vine summer tomatoes.
But we had the most fun on spaghetti night. When the pasta was done, I dressed it with butter and parmesan, then laid slices
Upon returning from a trip, Jackie and I generally have pasta as our first home-cooked meal. It isn't a question of deprivation (it happens even after we've been to Italy) but of a wish to return to cooking at its most domestic.
It is a real seasonal treat to use fresh tomatoes, either raw or cooked. But be sure to save one or two for slicing onto a tuna fish sandwich or a hamburger.
I remembered that Café Murano risotto and saw the basket of ripe farmers' market tomatoes on the counter. I used to not cook Swiss chard (or other greens) with tomato. Ever. It was a little idée fixe of mine that they were natural-born enemies.
When tomatoes are as good as they are at the height of summer, purity is a great asset.
It's all in the bread.
Really ripe peppers -- the kind you can smell from ten feet away at the farmers' market -- and tomatoes are gracing our New York City Greenmarkets.