Cet article fait partie des archives en ligne du HuffPost Québec, qui a fermé ses portes en 2021.

Les morts de Varanasi

Varanasi, Inde. Debout en bordure d'une intersection, c'est-à-dire un champ de bataille, j'admire une vache énorme qui roupille au milieu du rond-point. Dans les voitures, on attend.
|
This post was published on the now-closed HuffPost Contributor platform. Contributors control their own work and posted freely to our site. If you need to flag this entry as abusive, send us an email.

Varanasi, Inde.

Debout en bordure d'une intersection, c'est-à-dire un champ de bataille, j'admire une vache énorme qui roupille au milieu du rond-point.

Dans les voitures, on attend.

Autour, un vrombissement de risckshaws, vélos, vaches, chèvres, chiens et piétons qui se frôlent à toute vitesse sous une trame sonore de klaxons et de cris, et sur une route couverte de débris et bardée de déchets.

Le spa.

...

(L'article continue après la galerie)

Les morts de Varanasi
Bus touristique népalais(01 of08)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Nicolas Pham)
Frontière de l'Inde et du Népal(02 of08)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Nicolas Pham)
Lessive dans le fleuve sacré(03 of08)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Nicolas Pham)
Chèvre à la mode(04 of08)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Nicolas Pham)
Vache mangeant du plastique(05 of08)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Nicolas Pham)
D'autres vaches(06 of08)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Nicolas Pham)
Cadavre flottant sur le Ganges(07 of08)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Nicolas Pham)
Les ghats de Varanasi(08 of08)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Nicolas Pham)

Je suis venu par voie terrestre ; il est garanti que les autocars népalais, dans lesquels vous vous trouvez en apesanteur par moments, rendront banals à vos yeux toute autre forme de transport. À jamais.

On m'a largué à la frontière -un gros portail à travers lequel on circule librement, et où il faut chercher soi-même quelqu'un pour étamper son passeport, ce qui semble une activité facultative et ludique.

Descendu du bus, je fige : fébrile, enfin parvenu à l'un des plus vieux berceaux de la civilisation, une terre qui abrite pratiquement tous les climats, plus d'un milliard d'êtres humains, et vingt-trois langues officielles -la voix de Céline Dion s'élève de hauts-parleurs, et pique à travers l'air chaud pour venir crever ma bulle.

C'est la vie.

...

Varanasi est spéciale.

La crémation de votre dépouille dans la ville la plus sacrée de l'hindouisme est en quelque sorte un acte notarié : ça vous assure d'une place de choix dans l'au-delà, où enfle probablement une importante bulle immobilière.

Ainsi, on brûle chaque jour, dans des feux dits perpétuels, plus de deux cent cadavres en bordure du Ganges.

Ce qui reste de cendre est simplement poussé dans la rivière, abaissant un tantinet le niveau de salubrité d'un fleuve où baignent déjà des milliers de cadavres entiers - car il n'y a pas que la crémation.

Les corps considérés comme purs au moment de leur mort en raison d'un karma spécifique (femmes enceintes, prêtres, etc), ne sont pas incinérés ; ils sont tout bonnement jetés à l'eau avec un poids destiné à les ancrer au fond marin.

Toutefois, ce lest de fortune se brise souvent ; aussi une promenade en bateau d'une rive à l'autre donne parfois l'occasion de voir un cadavre flotter, gonflé par ses gaz de décomposition.

Les habitants ne s'en formalisent pas le moins du monde, se plongeant quotidiennement dans le fleuve saint pour se purifier. On y lave ses vêtements, on s'y brosse les dents. Cours d'eau sacré, eau pure.

Varanasi fait réfléchir ; elle abat le mur que nous érigeons entre nous et cette mort qui est pourtant notre inéluctable dénominateur commun, et à laquelle nous n'aimons pas penser.

Ici, elle s'assied à votre table, et vous devez la regarder dans les yeux.

...

Planté à la réception de mon hôtel en attendant une bière (clandestine par ici), je sens glisser sur moi des regards curieux.

Un jeune rassemble le courage de s'adresser à moi.

-You... tall !

-J'ai ghandi ?

Faire des blagues pour soi-même est un bastion où l'on se retranche après suffisamment de dialogues impossibles.

Qu'importe, recevoir une bière camouflée sous un journal, et marcher dans les dédales de quais où dansent des lueurs funèbres, discuter avec des gens qui ne nous comprennent pas, sous le ciel écarlate d'un autre côté du monde -c'est la beauté du voyage.

Attention à Céline Dion.

À voir aussi sur Le HuffPost:

Le Mont Everest
Camino al Monte Everest(01 of22)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Flickr:Alejandro Pinto)
Mount Everest(02 of22)
Open Image Modal
(credit:Flickr:kudumomo)
NEPAL-EVEREST(03 of22)
Open Image Modal
This undated photograph shows unidentified mountaineers as they walk past the Hillary Step whilst pushing for the summit of Mount Everest as they climb the south face from Nepal. Nepal marked 60 years since the first ascent of Everest May 29, celebrating the summiteers whose success has bred an industry that many climbers now fear is ruining the world\'s highest peak. AFP PHOTO/Tshering SHERPA (Photo credit should read TSHERING SHERPA/AFP/Getty Images) (credit:Getty Images)
NEPAL-EVEREST(04 of22)
Open Image Modal
This undated photograph shows unidentified mountaineers as they walk past the Hillary Step whilst pushing for the summit of Mount Everest as they climb the south face from Nepal. Nepal marked 60 years since the first ascent of Everest May 29, celebrating the summiteers whose success has bred an industry that many climbers now fear is ruining the world\'s highest peak. AFP PHOTO/Tshering SHERPA (Photo credit should read TSHERING SHERPA/AFP/Getty Images) (credit:Getty Images)
NEPAL-EVEREST(05 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this photograph taken on May 23, 2013 unidentified mountaineers look out from the summit of Mount Everest. Nepal marked 60 years since the first ascent of Everest May 29, celebrating the summiteers whose success has bred an industry that many climbers now fear is ruining the world\'s highest peak. AFP PHOTO/Tshering SHERPA (Photo credit should read TSHERING SHERPA/AFP/Getty Images) (credit:Getty Images)
NEPAL-EVEREST(06 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this photograph taken on May 23, 2013 flags lie on the summit of Mount Everest. Nepal marked 60 years since the first ascent of Everest May 29, celebrating the summiteers whose success has bred an industry that many climbers now fear is ruining the world\'s highest peak. AFP PHOTO/Tshering SHERPA (Photo credit should read TSHERING SHERPA/AFP/Getty Images) (credit:Getty Images)
NEPAL-EVEREST(07 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this photograph taken on May 23, 2013 unidentified mountaineers look out from the summit of Mount Everest. Nepal marked 60 years since the first ascent of Everest May 29, celebrating the summiteers whose success has bred an industry that many climbers now fear is ruining the world\'s highest peak. AFP PHOTO/Tshering SHERPA (Photo credit should read TSHERING SHERPA/AFP/Getty Images) (credit:Getty Images)
NEPAL-EVEREST(08 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this photograph taken on May 23, 2013 unidentified mountaineers look out from the summit of Mount Everest. Nepal marked 60 years since the first ascent of Everest May 29, celebrating the summiteers whose success has bred an industry that many climbers now fear is ruining the world\'s highest peak. AFP PHOTO/Tshering SHERPA (Photo credit should read TSHERING SHERPA/AFP/Getty Images) (credit:Getty Images)
Yuichiro Miura, Gota Miura(09 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this May 22, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins Co. Ltd., 80-year-old Japanese extreme skier Yuichiro Miura, left, uses oxygen mask and his son, Gota sips green tea as they take a rest in a tent at their South Col camp at 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) before their departure for Camp 5 during their attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. Miura, who climbed Mount Everest five years ago, but just missed becoming the oldest man to reach the summit, was back on the mountain Wednesday to make another attempt at the title. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins Co. Ltd.) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura(10 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this May 22, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins Co. Ltd., 80-year-old Japanese extreme skier Yuichiro Miura, right, and his son, Gota pose at their South Col camp at 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) before their departure for Camp 5 during their attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. Miura, who climbed Mount Everest five years ago, but just missed becoming the oldest man to reach the summit, was back on the mountain Wednesday to make another attempt at the title. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins Co. Ltd.) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura, Gota Miura(11 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Tuesday, May 21, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese extreme skier Yuichiro Miura, right, and his son, Gota, eat rolled sushi at their South Col camp at 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) during their attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to reach the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) peak on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to climb the world\'s highest peak. His rival, 81-year-old Min Bahadur Sherchan, from Nepal, who nabbed the record just before he could in 2008, was at the base camp preparing for his own attempt on the summit next week. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura (12 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Tuesday, May 21, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese extreme skier Yuichiro Miura rests as he goes through the South Col pass to a camp at 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) during his attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to reach the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) peak on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to climb the world\'s highest peak. His rival, 81-year-old Min Bahadur Sherchan, from Nepal, who nabbed the record just before he could in 2008, was at the base camp preparing for his own attempt on the summit next week. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura (13 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Tuesday, May 21, 2013, photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese extreme skier Yuichiro Miura rests in a camp at 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) during his attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to reach the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) peak on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to climb the world\'s highest peak. His rival, 81-year-old Min Bahadur Sherchan, from Nepal, who nabbed the record just before he could in 2008, was at the base camp preparing for his own attempt on the summit next week. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura (14 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Tuesday, May 21, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese extreme skier Yuichiro Miura goes through the South Col pass to a camp at 8,000 meters (26,247 feet) during his attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to reach the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) peak on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to climb the world\'s highest peak. His rival, 81-year-old Min Bahadur Sherchan, from Nepal, who nabbed the record just before he could in 2008, was at the base camp preparing for his own attempt on the summit next week. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
(15 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Saturday, May 17, 2013 photo provided by Raha Moharrak, Moharrak stands on the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) Mount Everest peak. Moharrak, the first woman from Saudi Arabia to scale Mount Everest, said she doesn\'t intend to inspire a movement, but would be happy to change people\'s opinions of Saudi women and Saudi women\'s opinions of themselves. (AP Photo/Ang Norbu Sherpa) (credit:AP)
Min Bahadur Sherchan(16 of22)
Open Image Modal
FILE - In this May 31, 2008 file photo, Min Bahadur Sherchan, center, who became the oldest person to climb Mount Everest on May 25, 2008 shakes hands on his arrival in Katmandu, Nepal. Yuichiro Miura, an 80-year-old Japanese extreme skier who just missed becoming the oldest man to reach the summit of Mount Everest five years ago is back on the mountain to make another attempt at the title. Unfortunately for Miura, Sherchan, the slightly older man who nabbed the record a day before he could in 2008 is fast on his heels. (AP Photo/Binod Joshi, File) (credit:AP)
Min Bahadur Sherchan(17 of22)
Open Image Modal
FILE - In this May 31, 2008 file photo, Min Bahadur Sherchan, who became the oldest person to climb Mount Everest on May 25, 2008 smiles on his arrival in Katmandu, Nepal. Yuichiro Miura, an 80-year-old Japanese extreme skier who just missed becoming the oldest man to reach the summit of Mount Everest five years ago is back on the mountain to make another attempt at the title. Unfortunately for Miura, Sherchan, the slightly older man who nabbed the record a day before he could in 2008 is fast on his heels. (AP Photo/Binod Joshi, File) (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura, Gota Miura(18 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Thursday, May 16, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese adventurer Yuichiro Miura, right, and his son, Gota, leave their base camp at 5,300 meters (17,388 feet) for their attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to accomplish the ascent on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to reach the world\'s highest peak. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura, Gota Miura(19 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Thursday, May 16, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese adventurer Yuichiro Miura leaves the base camp at 5,300 meters (17,388 feet) for his attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to accomplish the ascent on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to reach the world\'s highest peak. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura, Kenji Kondo(20 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Saturday, May 18, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese adventurer Yuichiro Miura, right, is greeted by his friend climber Kenji Kondo while resting at his camp at 6,500 meters (21,325 feet) during his attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to accomplish the ascent on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to reach the world\'s highest peak. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura(21 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Friday, May 17, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese adventurer Yuichiro Miura climbs through the Western Cwm glacial valley basin on his way to a camp at 6,500 meters (21,325 feet) from a camp at 6,050 meters (19,849 feet) during his attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to reach the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) peak on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to reach the world\'s highest peak. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)
Yuichiro Miura, Gota Miura(22 of22)
Open Image Modal
In this Friday, May 17, 2013 photo distributed by Miura Dolphins, 80-year-old Japanese adventurer Yuichiro Miura, right, and his son, Gota, rest on their way to a camp at 6,500 meters (21,325 feet) from a camp at 6,050 meters (19,849 feet) during their attempt to scale the summit of Mount Everest. According to his management office, Miura plans to reach the 8,850-meter (29,035-foot) peak on Thursday, May 23 to be the world\'s oldest person to reach the world\'s highest peak. (AP Photo/Miura Dolphins) MANDATORY CREDIT (credit:AP)

Open Image Modal
Open Image Modal
-- Cet article fait partie des archives en ligne du HuffPost Canada, qui ont fermé en 2021. Si vous avez des questions ou des préoccupations, veuillez consulter notre FAQ ou contacter support@huffpost.com.