The Savior Of Iraq’s Garden Of Eden Says He Knows How To Stop The Next Big War

Azzam Alwash helped bring the country's ancient marshlands back from the brink. But he says climate change and water politics are putting the region on edge.
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HuffPost Illustration/Getty Images

Azzam Alwash, the man credited with restoring the Iraqi marshlands believed to be the biblical garden of Eden, is ready to say something controversial: He welcomed the war.

Even now ― 15 years after U.S. forces invaded Iraq, ending nearly a quarter-century of Saddam Hussein’s rule and starting a war that has killed at least 1 million Iraqis and continues to destabilize an entire region ― he sees the good that came of it.

“The invasion of Iraq has resulted in a net positive for the nature in Iraq,” he told HuffPost by Skype from his office in Amman, Jordan. “A lot of good things have happened, environmentally speaking, after the removal of Saddam.”

Alwash, 60, has become Iraq’s most famous environmentalist.

Born in Nasiriyah, a southeastern Iraqi city, Alwash spent part of his childhood paddling a wooden boat with his father, a district irrigation engineer, through the towering reeds of the ancient marshlands between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. In the early 1970s, upstream dams began to reduce water in the wetlands, which many scholars believe to be the site of the biblical God’s garden, the birthplace of Abraham and the setting for scenes from the Epic of Gilgamesh.

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Dr. Azzam Alwash with a turtle in the central marshes in Iraq.
Huffpost Illustration/Dr Azzam Alwash

In 1978, Alwash moved to California, where he earned a doctorate in engineering, married a Texan and had two daughters. In the 1990s, he watched in horror as Hussein dammed, drained and destroyed the ancient marshes to punish and root out the Shiite rebels who hid there. Alwash founded a nonprofit with his then wife, Suzanne, to advocate for conserving the area.

After the United States invaded Iraq in 2003, Alwash left his wife and daughters in Los Angeles to head into the war zone, where he found Marsh Arabs, as the region’s tribal inhabitants are known, already working to puncture holes in the dams and levees that had shrunk the marshlands by 90 percent. He led a team of scientists and engineers to develop a plan to restore the marshes, and founded the nonprofit Nature Iraq to teach Iraqis about environmental stewardship. 

By 2013, the year he won the Goldman Environmental Prize, the so-called “green Oscar” award, nearly 50 percent of the marshes were replenished. A few months after receiving the award, Alwash established the area as Iraq’s first national park, protecting 386 square miles of an area roughly half the size of Florida Everglades and home to 28 of the country’s most unique birds. 

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Marshes in Iraq seen in December of 1995 and then in December of 2014.
HuffPost/Google Earth

“Educating a society on the importance of protecting the environment while they are living in a country ravaged by war and insecurity is enormously difficult,“ Ilan Kayatsky, a spokesman for the Goldman Prize, told HuffPost by email. “Preserving natural resources has not been a priority of the Iraqi people or their government, but it became a focus for Alwash.” 

But Alwash warned that while deconstructing Hussein’s water diversion infrastructure has allowed some water to the marshes, the environment is not what it once was.

“The marshes have not been restored,” he said. “The marshes have been reflooded.”

The freshwater that once filled the marshes is now brackish as a noxious mix of political jockeying and warming global temperatures are cutting off Iraq’s water at the source.

Climate change is making rainfall erratic in Iraq, causing river levels to drop by 40 percent in recent decades, the country’s water ministry told Reuters in December. In Turkey, Iran and the autonomous Kurdistan region, new hydropower dams and infrastructure projects that are being built to feed the faucets of growing cities threaten to pinch the flow of mountain meltwater into Iraq’s rivers. Since the end of the last ice age, the marshes have relied on springtime floods to replenish their water levels, wash away the salt and fertilize the soil with nutrient-rich clay and silt from the mountains. Ancient Sumerians celebrated the annual flood as a gift from Inanna, the goddess of fertility.

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Marsh Arab Abu Sabah paddles his boat at the Chebayesh marsh in Nassiriya, 300 km (185 miles) southeast of Baghdad on February 15, 2013.
Thaier Al-Sudani / Reuters

“It’s a symphony of biodiversity,” Alwash said. “Everything is dependent on the note, and the note is driven by the drumbeat of the annual floods.”

New upstream projects are also expected to slow the volume of water.

For decades, Iraq has struggled with water reductions as a result of dams in neighboring Turkey. But the Ilisu dam, a controversial new hydropower station set to begin operations in the coming months on the Tigris in southeast Turkey, could reduce the river’s flow into Iraq by 56 percent, according to an Iranian official who warned that Iran may also suffer. The dam is part of the Southeast Anatolia Project, a long-planned infrastructure build up that includes 22 dams.

“It’s a symphony of biodiversity. Everything is dependent on the note, and the note is driven by the drumbeat of the annual floods.”

- Azzam Alwash

In Iran, a new dam on the Sirwan river put the flow of water into Kurdistan, the restive northern region of Iraq, in jeopardy. A campaign group called Save the Tigris sprang up in Erbil, the capital of Kurdistan, to advocate against it.

But the government in Kurdistan took its own measures to secure its water. Last March, officials in the region announced a set of roughly 20 small- and medium-sized dam projects aimed at protecting irrigation and drinking water supplies.

“The snowmelt in the mountains of Kurdistan is not how it used to be,” Alwash said. Without that freshwater, the agricultural plains in southern Iraq are becoming saltier and less able to grow crops, raising the risk of food shortages.

“If we are what we eat, then we’re all Kurds in one way or another,” he said. “That line gets a lot of applause in Kurdistan but it does not get a good reaction in southern Iraq. They don’t like the idea of being related in nature.”

More than half of Iraq’s population is already at risk of food shortages as a result of ongoing conflicts with militants, according to a U.N. World Food Program report last April. In 2015, at the peak of the so-called Islamic State’s control over huge swaths of the country, the militant group cut off the flow of water through a dam in Ramadi, in central Iraq. Food prices soared by up to 58 percent in some regions. 

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Dr. Azzam Alwash tours marshlands in Iraq.
HuffPost Illustration/Tracey Shelton

Alwash worries an arms race over water will make the region even more of a tinderbox. With his marsh projects well established, he now finds himself jet-setting around the world on a quixotic mission to convince policymakers to avert their attention from ongoing conflicts to consider the much bigger and, he believes, much more deadly, conflicts of the near future over water. He returned to Amman from Vienna just days before a recent interview, and planned to leave for Kuwait soon after.

The war to rout Islamic State from northern Iraq has brought other environmental crises. The militants routinely torch oil fields before retreating from an area, leaving thick clouds of smoke that blacken white sheep and burn for months. Worse yet, there is virtually no international funding set aside to clean up the pollution, according to a report published in November 2017 by the Dutch nonprofit PAX.

March marks the seventh year of civil war in Syria, a conflict that some call a “climate war” because it began with unrest sewn by the country’s worst drought in roughly 900 years. It also marks the third year of Saudi Arabia’s bombing campaign in Yemen. President Donald Trump’s decision to open a U.S. embassy in Jerusalem has escalated tensions between Israel and Palestine. Turkey is increasing its military intervention into Kurdish-controlled parts of Syria.

Yet Alwash is hoping he can broker talks to begin cooperative water projects between Iraq, Turkey, Iran and other neighboring countries.

He said he’s ready to say something else controversial: militants like ISIS are actually right about one thing: The region needs to unite itself. Alwash said he envisions “a Middle East without borders, built on the idea of creating cooperation on water instead of tension.”

“The Islamists are looking for a borderless Middle East, they want to do it with Syria and political Islam,” he said. “I have the same goal. I want a Middle East without borders. But I want it with democracy and plurality of a political system.”

“The environmentalists of Iraq and the Islamists of Iraq have the same goal,” he added with a facetious laugh, “just a different roadmap.”

Before You Go

Iconic Images of the Iraq War
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U.S. Secertary of State Colin Powel holds up a vial that he said could contain anthrax during a meeting of the United Nations Security Council at the United Nations headquarters on Wednesday, Feb. 5, 2003. (AP Photo/Elise Amendola, File) (credit:AP)
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An Iraqi man looks at his mother in a bus as others load luggage on the top of the vehicle bound for neighboring Syria at a bus station in Baghdad, Iraq on Sunday, March 9, 2003. Bus lines increased their trips to Syria from 4 to 20 a day at this station, carrying passengers fleeing amid the threat of a US-led invasion as well as others headed to the holy Shiite Muslim shrine of Sayeda Zeinab in the Syrian capital. (AP Photo/David Guttenfelder, File) (credit:AP)
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Smoke rises from the Trade Ministry in Baghdad on March 20, 2003 after it was hit by a missile during US-led forces attacks. (AP Photo/Jerome Delay, File) (credit:AP)
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U.S. Army Bradley fighting vehicles travel in a convoy through the dust carrying infantrymen just after crossing the border into southern Iraq on Friday, March 21, 2003. (AP Photo/John Moore, File) (credit:AP)
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U.S. Marines with 3rd Battalion, 7th Marines, 1st Marine Division, take cover after a mortar attack during a sandstorm on a road south of Baghdad, Iraq on Wednesday, March 26, 2003. (AP Photo/Laura Rauch, File) (credit:AP)
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U.S. Army Stf. Sgt. Chad Touchett, center, relaxes with comrades from A Company, 3rd Battalion, 7th Infantry Regiment, after a search of one of Saddam Hussein's bomb-damaged palaces in Baghdad on Monday, April 7, 2003. (AP Photo/John Moore, File) (credit:AP)
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A looter rests on a fountain in the lobby of a smoke filled Sheraton hotel in Basra, Iraq on Monday, April 7, 2003. (AP Photo/David Guttenfelder, File) (credit:AP)
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A U.S. Marine watches a statue of Saddam Hussein being toppled in Firdaus Square in downtown Baghdad on April 9, 2003 file photo. (AP Photo/Jerome Delay, File) (credit:AP)
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Piles of torn and burned Iraqi currency bearing the portrait of Saddam Hussein lie in ashes on the floor of the burned Baghdad Central Bank on Friday, April 18, 2003. (AP Photo/David Guttenfelder, File) (credit:AP)
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U.S. President George W. Bush gives a thumbs up as he visits the aircraft carrier USS Abraham Lincoln off the California coast on Thursday, May 1, 2003. (AP Photo/J. Scott Applewhite, File) (credit:AP)
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Moments after the explosions, a youth runs past the victims and burning debris at the site of several bomb blasts in densely-occupied areas during the holy day of Ashoura, a Shiite festival, in the holy city of Karbala, Iraq on Tuesday, March 2, 2004. (AP Photo/Brennan Linsley, File) (credit:AP)
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An Iraqi man celebrates on top of a burning U.S. Army Humvee in the northern part of Baghdad, Iraq on Monday, April 26, 2004. (AP Photo/Muhammed Muheisen, File) (credit:AP)
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This late 2003 image obtained by The Associated Press shows an unidentified detainee standing on a box with a bag on his head and wires attached to him at the Abu Ghraib prison in Baghdad, Iraq. (AP Photo/File) (credit:AP)
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The mother of Samah Hussein cries over his body in a Baghdad, Iraq morgue on June 13, 2004 after he was killed when a suicide attacker detonated a car bomb outside the U.S. military camp Cuervo. (AP Photo/Samir Mizban, File) (credit:AP)
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A U.S. soldier aims his weapon at a man who a soldier had just shot in the neck as he attempted to flee down a narrow alley in a van, across the street from the scene of Tuesday's intense shootout on a house in Mosul, Iraq on Wednesday, July 23, 2003. (AP Photo/Wally Santana, File) (credit:AP)
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A U.S. soldier demonstrates access to a shaft used by former Iraqi leader Saddam Hussein before he was captured two days earlier, on a farm near Tikrit, northern Iraq on Monday, Dec. 15, 2003. (AP Photo/Laurent Rebours, File) (credit:AP)
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Captured former Iraqi leader Saddam Hussein undergoes a medical examination in Baghdad on Dec. 14, 2003 in this image made from video. (AP Photo/US Military via APTN, File) (credit:AP)
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This image made from video released by Iraqi state television shows Saddam Hussein's guards wearing ski masks and placing a noose around the deposed leader's neck moments before his execution on Saturday, Dec. 30, 2006. (AP Photo/Iraqi state television, File) (credit:AP)
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Relatives of Iraqi National Guard soldier Ryaad Khudayar grieve at the morgue in the Baqouba hospital, some 65 kilometers northeast of Baghdad, Iraq, after he was killed in a car blast on Tuesday, Aug. 3, 2004. (AP Photo/Khalid Mohammed, File) (credit:AP)
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Demonstrators chant anti-American slogans as charred and mutilated bodies of U.S. contractors hang from a bridge over the Euphrates River in Fallujah, west of Baghdad, on March 31, 2004. (AP Photo/Khalid Mohammed, File) (credit:AP)
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U.S. Army Nurse supervisor Patrick McAndrew tries to save the life of an American soldier by giving him CPR on a stretcher as he arrived at a military hospital in Baghdad, Iraq on Tuesday, Nov. 9, 2004. The soldier was fatally wounded in a Baghdad firefight with insurgents. (AP Photo/John Moore, File) (credit:AP)
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U.S. Marine Lance Cpl. Timothy Dupuis, of Dover, N.H., climbs the stairs at an outpost in Fallujah, Iraq, 65 kilometers (40 miles) west of Baghdad, on Tuesday, May 2, 2006. (AP Photo/Jacob Silberberg, File) (credit:AP)
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This image made from a video from a U.S. Army Apache helicopter gun sight, posted at Wikileaks.org and confirmed as authentic by a senior U.S. military official, shows two men in the streets of the New Baghdad district of eastern Baghdad after being fired upon by the helicopter on July 12, 2007. Among those killed in the attack was Reuters photographer Namir Noor-Eldeen, 22, and his driver Saeed Chmagh, 40. Two children also were wounded. According to U.S. officials, two helicopters arrived at the scene to find a group of men approaching the fight with what look to be AK-47s slung over their shoulders and at least one rocket-propelled grenade. A military investigation later concluded that what was thought to be an RPG was a telephoto lens and the AK-47 was a camera. (AP Photo/Wikileaks.org, File) (credit:AP)
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An Iraqi prisoner of war comforts his 4-year-old son at a regrouping center for POWs captured by the U.S. Army 101st Airborne Division near Najaf, Iraq on March 31, 2003. (AP Photo/Jean-Marc Bouju, File) (credit:AP)
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In this Dec. 14, 2008 file photo, Muntadhar al-Zeidi, an Iraqi journalist, throws a shoe at U.S. President George W. Bush during a news conference with Iraq Prime Minister Nouri al-Maliki in Baghdad, Iraq. (AP Photo/Evan Vucci, File) (credit:AP)
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A volunteer puts flowers next to a cross at the Arlington West Iraq war memorial display on the beach next to the Santa Monica Pier in Santa Monica, Calif. on Saturday May 27, 2006. (AP Photo/Stefano Paltera, File) (credit:AP)