Bryant Terry, 'Inspired Vegan' Author, Eco-Chef, At Sunday Dinner

Vegan Meets Soul, Music And More In Bryant Terry's Kitchen
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In the dead of winter, Bryant Terry is dreaming of Detroit Summer.

The multiracial, inter-generational collective founded by Afro-Asian couple and food justice pioneers James Boggs and Grace Lee Boggs has functioned as a source of inspiration in Terry's personal life -- he, too, is married to a Chinese-American woman -- as well as in the creation of his first, second and, now, third cookbook, The Inspired Vegan.

VEGAN
Terry's culinary roots and devotion to social change through food date back before the Boggs, however, and before Detroit was what's being called a hotbed for the food justice movement. It is, he says, inherent.

"I grew up in Memphis, Tennessee and both of my grandfathers grew up on farms that their families owned in rural Mississippi," he says. "When they moved to the city [of Memphis] they brought with them these agrarian traditions and a desire to grow their own food, a desire to connect with the land, a desire to share their bounty. That deeply impacted my thoughts around the power that we have to produce food for ourselves and to feed our families," he adds.

The disempowerment that comes from relying on others for nourishment is a message Terry credits his grandfather for teaching him and the one that lies at the core of his eco-cooking.

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"This ethos around eating locally, seasonably and sustainably is the conversation du jour," Terry says. "More people are starting to understand the importance of these values and they've moved from the margins to the center over the past decade that I've been doing this work."

What Terry also hopes will move from the margins is the idea that soul food can be healthy.

SOUL
It's a stigma he attempted to negate in his 2009 book Vegan Soul Kitchen: Fresh, Healthy, and Creative African-American Cuisine. "Part of my desire to create that project was me being so angry at the way in which African-American cuisine is vilified, as the bain of African-American health," he says. The belief that soul food consists solely of deep-fried meats and sugary desserts simply isn't true. Nor is it true that most African-Americans are eating them with that kind of frequency.

"When I consider my own family and the people in the community in which my family grew up, these are not the foods people ate on a daily basis -- as if people were eating fried chicken for breakfast and red velvet cake for lunch -- these were celebratory foods," he says.

To the contrary, Terry adds, the community relied on nutrient-dense leafy greens, tubers and legumes, foods that most physicians or advocates of sustainable eating would argue we all should be eating.

"My goal is to revive these traditions...and say no, African-Americans can have a healthful diet and we don't have to look any further than our own cultural food ways," Terry says. "I simply want to challenge people to move beyond obvious ingredients and dishes and discover the hidden narrative of African-American cooking."

KITCHEN
Terry's fueling his mission from his own front yard, where he grows enough fruits and vegetables to share with family and friends. The rest gets prepped in a variety of Afro-Asian flavored dishes and served alongside the music, books and films that inspired them.

"One of the reasons I have suggested soundtracks and films and art and culture as a part of [The Inspired Vegan] is because that was just all in the context of eating in my home," Terry says, highlighting his family's musical heritage, including soul singer Ann Peebles (Terry's aunt) and Don Bryant, his uncle, who shared spots on Memphis' Hi Records with Al Green.

"At family gatherings," which he says included Sunday dinners, "people were singing, somebody was playing the piano, people were eating, so those things intersect for me."

Terry's "Detroit Harvest" menu, partially featured below, includes music suggestions from five Detroit artists including Aaliyah, The White Stripes and J Dilla, and books such as Grace Lee Boggs' Living For Change.

"There's this chasm in our contemporary society where food is on one side and art and culture and community is somewhere else. I'm part of this movement to reintegrate all of those things."

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Before You Go

Black-Eyed Peas in Garlic-Ginger-Braised Mustard Greens with Quick-Pickled Mustard Greens, Sesame Seeds and Tamari(01 of04)
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Yield4 to 6 servingsSoundtrack"Detroit Summer" by Invincible + Waajeed from Detroit Summer/EmergenceBookLiving for Change by Grace Lee BoggsSince we always have lots of mustard greens growing in our garden, this has become a standard dish in our home. The combination of simmered black-eyed peas and sautéed mustards is simple yet flavorful, and the taste deepens after sitting overnight. I use just enough ginger to provide some warmth and subtle zing without overpowering the dish. Right before serving, finish it off with tamari and a heaping dollop of quick-pickled mustard greens. Eaten with a grain this is a complete meal.Black-Eyed Peas3/4 cup dried black-eyed peas, sorted, soaked overnight, drained and rinsed1 (3-inch) piece kombuCoarse sea saltMustard GreensCoarse sea salt1 1/2 pounds mustard greens, ribs removed and composted, leaves coarsely chopped3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil1/2 cup finely chopped red onion2 teaspoons minced ginger1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakesCoarse sea salt2 garlic cloves, minced1 cup vegetable stock1 tablespoon sesame seeds2 tablespoons tamari sauce or more to tasteQuick-pickled mustard greensMaking The Black-Eyed PeasIn a medium saucepan over high heat, combine the black-eyed peas with the kombu and enough water to cover them by 4 inches. Bring to a boil. Skim off any foam, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer, partially covered, just until tender, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Add 1/4 teaspoon sea salt for the last 10 minutes of cooking. Drain the beans in a colander, reserving 2 cups of cooking liquid. Set the beans and liquid aside. Making The Mustard GreensIn a medium saucepan over high heat, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon salt. Add the greens and boil, uncovered, for 3 to 5 minutes, until softened. Drain in a colander, and set aside.In a large sauté pan or a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the olive oil, onion, ginger, red pepper flakes, and 1/4 teaspoon salt, and sauté, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until softened, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved greens and stir to incorporate.Stir in the vegetable stock, the reserved black-eyed peas, and the reserved bean liquid. Raise heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the sesame seeds, season with tamari sauce to taste, and serve along with a whopping dollop of quick-pickled mustard greens. (credit:Jennifer Martine)
Quick-Pickled Mustard Greens(02 of04)
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Here is a great way to preserve surplus mustard greens and enjoy them during the off-season. Use them as a condiment to add flavor to stews, porridges, and other vegetable dishes.1 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar1/2 cup distilled white vinegar3 tablespoons raw organic cane sugar1/4 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon peppercorns2 pounds mustard greens, stems removed and sliced thinly,leaves chopped roughly (keep stems and leaves separate)2 serrano chiles, sliced thinlyIn a medium-size sauté pan over low heat, combine the vinegars,sugar, salt, and peppercorns. Stir well until the sugar is completely dissolved, about % minutes. Remove from the heat to let cool for a few minutes.Meanwhile, in a large pot over high heat, bring 3 quarts of waterto a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt. Stir in the mustard stems, andboil for 1 minute. Immediately remove from the heat, add the mustard leaves, and let sit for 1 minute. Drain in a colander, and rinse with cool water. Set aside.Transfer the greens and stems to a large heatproof bowl or a canning jar. Add the chiles to the jar, and pour the pickling liquidover everything. Set aside.Let pickle for at least 2 hours. If not eating immediately, transferto the refrigerator. (credit:Jennifer Martine)
Molasses, Miso and Maple-Candied Sweet Potatoes(03 of04)
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Yield4 to 6 servingsSoundtrack"Revolution" by Nina Simone from Protest AnthologyBookConversations in Maine: Exploring our Nation's Future by James Boggs and Grace Lee BoggsCandied Sweet Potatoes is a popular side dish often served on holidays in the South. This everyday version makes use of two staples of Japanese cooking -- tamari (wheat-free soy sauce) and Miso (fermented soy bean paste) -- to give this recipe an Asian twist. Sesame oil seals the deal. One might imagine the taste of these strong ingredients overpowering the combination of cinnamon, sugar, molasses, and maple. But the complex, multi-layered flavors coexist harmoniously and yield a perfect balance of sweet and savory. The sweet potatoes are roasted first to caramelize their exterior and bring out their inherent earthy sweetness. Next the liquid is used to baste the sweet potatoes for over half an hour to ensure that they are moist. Result: Slammin'.2 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes or garnet yams, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch rounds2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil1 2-inch cinnamon stick2 tablespoons molasses1 teaspoon tamari or tamari2 tablespoons pure maple syrup1 heaping tablespoon white or yellow miso1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest6 tablespoons filtered waterPreheat the oven to 425°F.In a large bowl, toss the yams with 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil.Spread the sweet potatoes on a parchment-lined or well-greased baking sheet in a single layer and roast for 50 minutes, turning over with a fork after 25 minutes.Remove the sweet potatoes from the oven and reduce the heat to 375°F.Place the cinnamon stick at the bottom of a 2-quart baking dish, and add the sweet potatoes in layers. Set aside.In a medium bowl, whisk together the, molasses, tamari, maple syrup, miso, orange juice, lemon juice, lemon zest, water, and the remaining tablespoon of sesame oil. Pour over the sweet potatoes.Bake uncovered, for 30 minutes, thoroughly basting the sweet potatoes every 10 minutes. (credit:Jennifer Martine)
Rice Wine-Poached Asian Pears with Spiced Syrup (04 of04)
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Yield4 to 6 servingsSoundtrack"Her Tears Taste Like Pears" by Dorian Concept from Her Tears Taste Like PearsBookRed Is a Dragon: A Book of Colors by Roseanne Thong with illustrations by Grace LinOne of my favorite ways to take advantage of seasonal pears is gently simmering them in a combination of wine, water, sugar and spices--this process is also known as poaching. Asian pears are especially tasty when poached, as they are firm and crisp (as opposed to the buttery texture of Anjou, Bartlett, and Bosc pears). Their starting texture results in a poached pear that is soft but not mushy.The naturally sweet juiciness of Asian pears nicely compliments sauce made from reduced poaching liquid. I typically use Riesling as the base, but I wanted to use plum rice wine in this dessert to bolster its Asian flavor profile. When reduced, the poaching liquid resembles a spiced honey. In fact, we use any leftover reduction as a sweetener for oatmeal, grits, and the like.3 cups plum rice wine (Riesling works just as well)1 cup water1 cup raw cane sugar2 4-inch cinnamon sticks2 star anise podsOne 1/2-inch round of fresh gingerZest of 1 medium orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler5 Asian pears, peeled, cut into quarters, and coredIn a large saucepan over low heat, combine the wine, water, sugar, cinnamon, star anise, ginger, and orange zest. Bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until hot to touch and the sugar has completely dissolved, about 3 minutes.Add the pears, raise the heat to medium, and simmer, stirring often, until just tender, 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat.With a slotted spoon, transfer the pears to a large bowl and refrigerate to cool. Over high heat, bring the poaching liquid to a boil. Reduce the liquid until thick and syrupy (to about 1 cup) for 20 minutes or so. Remove the solids from the poaching liquid with a slotted spoon and compost them.Transfer the syrup to a heatproof bowl and refrigerate until cool.Serve the pears drizzled with syrup. (credit:Jennifer Martine)