Why is it so difficult for shorter guys to shop for clothes?
I'm 5'6" and it has been my experience that the clothes you find in most department stores and on many websites are better sized and styled for men 5'10" or more. This is despite the fact that the average height of an adult male in the U.S. is about 5'8". It's no wonder a lot of men around my height are forced to wear oversized clothing or have few choices.
What was made for someone six foot or taller, probably won't look as good on someone who is 5'6" and vice versa. Shorter men shouldn't be so accepting of sizing imperfections that cannot be addressed with simple tailoring. If you know what to look for, there are actually good options for men my height.
When a small isn't a small
What should guys look for in a shirt?
Smaller framed men should look for a shorter point collar (under three inches), slimmer shoulders with a seam that does not extend beyond the shoulder bone, higher armholes, and a slightly tapered waist. If you wear the shirt untucked, the shirttail should fall about mid-zipper in the front and just below the pocket in the back. Any longer, can look sloppy and create a body shortening effect.
What about pants?
Not so easy to fix is the rise, which is the distance of the seam between your legs to the top of your waistband. This is one of the most critical aspects of fit. Rises range from 7 to 12 inches. Standard rises tend to be on the higher end of the range, which on men with shorter legs can create a top heavy and disproportionate look.
Look for "short rise" pants of about 9 or 10 inches. Short rise pants can be difficult to find but if you do, it will eliminate excessive fabric in the crotch area, have a leg lengthening effect and create a more balanced appearance.
What are the best colors and patterns?
You want to buy clothes that draw the eyes toward the face and not down toward the shoes. It is true that vertical stripes or pinstripes can be slimming and elongating, while horizontal stripes tend to visually widen and shorten frames.
A major color contrast between the top of your outfit and the bottom can visually cut a guy in half. Try colors that blend, perhaps an olive pant with a slightly darker shirt or a navy pant with a shirt in another shade of blue. This will create more a more fluid and streamlined look.
Shorter stature men should avoid overly long and wide belts and ties. Big belts with extra leather around the waist can make you look smaller and interrupt an otherwise fluid look from top to bottom. Buy a belt that is only two inches more than your waist size and choose one that blends well with or matches the color of the pants and shirt for a more streamlined look. Standard ties can be as much as 60 inches in length and about four inches in width. Shorter stature guys should look for shorter (about 55 inches) and narrower (2 ½- inches) ties that draw the eye up.
How does a shorter guy know if he has the right fit?
Here's a quick checklist of things to look for when he looks in the mirror.
- Take a quick scan of your outfit from bottom to top and if your eye stops on something before it gets to your face, this may signify a trouble spot.
Can a shorter guy shop online for clothes?
Jaden Lam is a menswear designer. Learn more about his work and see his collection at www.jadenlam.com.
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