Mornings On Horseback With Argentina's Gauchos

At the foothills of the Andes in north eastern Argentina, you can hear horse hooves pounding against the dirt: Gauchos racing through the underbrush to herd cattle.
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At the foothills of the Andes in northwestern Argentina, you can hear horse hooves pounding against the dirt: Gauchos racing through the underbrush to herd cattle, tearing up the earth at rodeos, breaking beastly stallions. While Argentine cowboys inhabit the entire country -- concentrated in areas around Buenos Aires and in Patagonia -- Salta is the land of Los Gauchos de Güemes: a group of wild men who carry on the tradition of wars fought here long ago.

In 1816, Argentinian revolutionary Martín Miguel de Güemes employed the Gauchos, who were viewed as working class citizens, as soldiers in the War of Independence, forming a military of at least 6,000 horsemen to hold off Spanish invasions along the Peruvian border. As their leader, Güemes defined himself as a patriarch for the Gauchos, defending their rights against criticism from the country's upper class.

Now, they drape their shoulders in prideful ponchos red and black -- colors symbolizing the blood and mourning of general Martín Miguel de Guemes. And despite economic status, gender, or age, men and women today maintain the same Gaucho traditions with honor. Being a Gaucho is a way of life.

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A spectator Gaucho watches the rodeo, accompanied by supplies for future rounds and a backpack bearing the name of the regional beer, cerveza Salta. It's slogan: el sentir que nos une, the feeling that unites us, a theme suiting of the moment. In Salta, there still remains a very stark divide between wealthy Gauchos who work in the city and lower income Gauchos who work in the countryside, this historic culture, however, brings together people from all walks of life.
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Morning before a ride, a Gaucho trims his horse's mane with careful diligence. In Northern Argentina, it's tradition to keep the horses' manes trimmed short not only for style but also for maintenance. It's easy for their manes to become entangled with the area's dry indigenous thorns and plants. Gauchos, however, always leave a portion of the mane at the nape of the neck to hold when riding bareback.
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In August, Gauchos Salteños practice La Pachamama, which translates to mother earth in Aymara and Quechua, indigenous languages of the Andes. During La Pachamama ritual, they dig a hole in the ground and fill it with food, wine, and other provisions and then bury the mixture as a way to feed mother earth, asking for blessings in future cultivation.
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Gauchos_7: From the time they are young, Gauchos begin learning and practicing the customs and traditions of their culture. They wear bombachas de gauchos (loose fitting cotton pants), leather boots, black sombreros, and red and black ponchos. I have seen children riding horses before they can even walk or talk, and they are also skillful at the lasso.
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Seconds after leaping into the air to lasso the calf, this Gaucho plummets to the ground, rope in hand, with his facón hooked through his belt loop. A Gaucho is never without his knife as it is used for just about everything from trimming lassos and working leather to cutting a clear path through the underbrush and slicing meat. Gauchos once used Facones, characterized by their long and slender structure, during battle when expensive firearms were beyond their economic means.
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In this round of the Doma -- a term synonymous for rodeo -- a Gaucho whips his horse with one hand and uses the other to grip the reigns. He rides bareback using only the strength of his legs, the friction of cow hide boots, and the support of the small pillow between his legs to stay on the horse, or at least try to for as long as he can.
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On June 17 every year, thousands of Gauchos convene in Salta to honor the death of General Martín Miguel de Guemes. Here, two Gauchos depart an affectionate embrace, supporting the image of Guemes whom the Argentine government officially made a national hero in 2006 for the role he played in winning Argentina's independence.
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During La Yerra -- a cattle branding competition that sometimes preceding a rodeo -- teams of three gauchos work together to lasso a calf, pin it down, then brand it. The team with the quickest time wins. Free-spirited animals are always, however, difficult to wrangle.
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A Gaucho enjoys an afternoon maté while waiting his turn to compete in the rodeo. Maté, a traditional Argentine tea of bitter herbs, is served in either a hollowed-out gourd or wooden cup and sipped through the bombilla, a steadfast metal straw. Gauchos claim maté has important digestive qualities needed to balance out their diet, which consists mostly of beef especially costillas a la parrilla: barbequed ribs.
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Getting released for rodeo can feel sometimes as if the horse were escaping before proper preparations have been made. They are still just as wild as the men who break them.
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Whip in pocket, a Gaucho nervously looks on as he prepares for his turn at the Doma.
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Another round at the rodeo. This time in addition to leather booties and a whip, the Gaucho is allotted a small platform saddle and circular stirrups.
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Bathed in spectral light, a Gaucho looks ghostly as he pauses to water his horses. If not mistaken, it appears an image from another era. But this is modern day Salta, a place with traditions so well preserved it feels, sometimes, like a trip back in time.
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A Gaucho fights to maintain balance as his horse tries to buck and kick himself free.
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Another great place to lace up a sombrero besides your chin? Your nose. It prevents the hat from slipping down over your eyes, which is important during a rodeo because every second a Gaucho has to lasso the calf counts.
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While sometimes recognized for their brutish demeanor, Gauchos also have a gentle side as witnessed in their relationship with horses and love for their land.
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Daybreak, a peaceful morning moment before the ruckus and thrills of the rodeo.
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Reflections of a stable.

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