Hip and Historical Istanbul

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Juliet Kinsman, editor-in-chief Mr & Mrs Smith, takes us on a tour of Istanbul, a dazzling mishmash of centuries-old and cutting-edge and a cultural capital.
Photography by David Giles.

Soul-stirring mosques vie for your attention alongside modern-art packed galleries in this Turkish city on the banks of the Bosphorus River. Standing astride both two continents, Istanbul is the unique collision of Europe and Asia. Cradling the wonders of the Ottoman and Byzantine empires, there's the breathtaking Topkapi Palace in Sultanehmet where sultans redefined the word 'decadence', and the Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya), the great cathedral of Byzantium for over 1,000 years, and the greatest mosque in the Ottoman Empire for five centuries. Take a boat ride up the Bosphorus between the Asian and European shores and admire the yalis (summerhouses) as you cruise up to the Black Sea and back, then enjoy a caffeinated nightlife somewhere rad or trad before retreating to your hip hideaway. There is nowhere on Earth quite like Istanbul.

Istanbul
Where To Stay: The House Hotel Galatasaray(01 of13)
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The paint's barely dry at this lovingly revived mansion in Cukurcuma, which has been given a flamboyant new-meets-old Autoban reworking. Centuries-past plasterwork and pristine parquet flooring is the elegant backdrop to statement retro lighting, quirky marble ensuite bathrooms and crisp white-linened beds. Suites are spacious, service is low-key and the roof terrace is sexy - this is cheap-chic as it should be.
Where To Stay: The House Hotel Galatasaray(02 of13)
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There are 20 rooms, but our favorite is the spacious Penthouse Suite, which has high pine-beamed ceilings, corniced white walls and gleaming floors, and that's not even the best bit: see the windows for this (and their view of the Galata Tower, city sprawl and a minaret or two). Lovers of natural light will enjoy roomy Exe.
Where To Stay: The House Hotel Nisantasi(03 of13)
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A Bosphorous-facing design dream with spacious suites and Autoban's furniture, such as their signature birdcage-shaped chairs. A smart black entrance sets the tone, and inside it just gets better. Innovation and ingenuity is clear: the smooth edges of the furniture look deceptively molten, and walls covered in fabric have inventive and irregular lighting built in. As well as a cocktail-making kit, rooms come with a wine rack set into the wall, which is where the French flair for detail comes in; like everything else, the wines are selected with only the best in mind. With Prada as its neighbor, the style stakes are raised. Just as well the House Hotel Nisantasi is impeccably turned out.
Where To Stay: The House Hotel Nisantasi(04 of13)
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The hotel has 45 rooms, including nine suites. Suites 51 and 61 are wonderful for their breathtaking Bosphorus views; their white marble bathrooms, cocoa colors and Autoban accoutrement aren't bad, either. For the same view but more space, and a private balcony, head up to the seventh floor and try out the Terrace Deluxe Rooms.
What To Do: Art & Culture(05 of13)
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Opposite the Hagia Sophia is the Blue Mosque with its soaring minarets and intricate stonework, another of the city's most striking landmarks. For contemporary culture, head to Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, and Istanbul Modern. This waterfront warehouse showcases homegrown and international works; it also has a great café with a Bosphorus-side balcony. Pera Museum on Mesrutiyet elegantly showcases Ottoman art and ceramics. There are a lot of music and visual arts events going on in Istanbul so try and time your visit to experience one. In April, catch a screening on the Golden Horn during the Istanbul International Film Festival. June/July hosts the International Istanbul Music Festival, the city's most prestigious cultural event featuring ballet, opera and classical music concerts, often staged in historic landmarks such as the Topkapi palace. For many the July Jazz Festival is the highlight of the city's calendar, when acts from Robert Plant to Norah Jones drop anchor here.
A View Of The Blue Mosque(06 of13)
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A Room At The Istanbul Modern Museum(07 of13)
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What To Do: Shopping(08 of13)
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In Sultanahmet, the Grand Bazaar is a warren of shops selling carpets, jewelry, and textiles - it's a great place to pick up caviar and gold. Across the water in Beyoğlu, the steep narrow streets are lined with bric-a-brac, vintage and retro shops. Faik Pasa Yokusu is one of the best roads for rummaging; Tabe Kıyamet in Cukurcuma is especially interesting for quirky secondhand womenswear. For designer threads, head to Teşvikiye Caddesi and Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi, a mile north of Taksim Square.
Inside the Grand Bazaar(09 of13)
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What To Do: Shopping(10 of13)
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Head to Faik Pasa Yokusu, a great shop for rummaging.
What To Do: Eat & Drink(11 of13)
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Turkish cuisine has a noble heritage, developed over centuries, and honed to please the Ottoman sultans. Traditional eateries are taverna-style meyhane, where tapas-like meze is best moistened with a mouthful or two of Turkey's incredibly strong raki. A good spot for this is Tunel, in the SoHo of Istanbul. The buzzing strip where Sofyali meets Sehbender is cocktalerie central with bars such as Otto .For a lazy latté, hit an outpost of The House Café (pictured), the stylish Autoban-designed chain in Ortakoy through to Tesvikiye. The original is in Nisanstisi on the Boshporus shoreline. The city also has a chic fusion scene, with Changa at its vanguard, on Siraselviler Caddesi in Taksim. Contemporary and anything but conventional, Peter Gordon of London's Providores consults on its adventurous dishes. Or try its sister restaurant Müzedechanga in the Sakip Sabanci Museum).
What To Do: Smoke & Steam(12 of13)
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To live out the Istanbul fantasy in full, relax with locals over a nargile (hubbly-bubbly pipe) at Oz Truva on Yeniceriler in Sultanahmet (pictured). Be cleaner than you thought possible after a soak at a steamy, traditional Turkish hammam. Cağaloğlu Hamam near the Grand Bazaar was built almost 300 years ago and gives modern-day spas a run for their scrubbing.
Istanbul at Night(13 of13)
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