How To Make A <em>Real</em> Daiquiri - And The Best White Rums To Make It With

A properly made daiquiri, like a martini or a Manhattan, is one of the most elegant cocktails you'll ever drink. A deceptively simple alchemy of three ingredients that create true magic in a glass.
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Pity the poor daiquiri. Mention the word to your average neighborhood bartender and the odds are probably 50-50 you'll wind up with a slushy, fruit-flavored morass of syrups and chemicals, designed to mask any hint of alcohol and get the drinker blotto as quickly and painlessly as possible. And hey, I've got no problem with that. A great deal of my college career was spent quaffing those very libations, and on those rare occasions when I'm in the mood for the alcoholic equivalent of a Slurpee, it still goes down mighty easy.

But a daiquiri, it's not. A properly made daiquiri, like a martini or a Manhattan, is one of the most elegant cocktails you'll ever drink. A deceptively simple alchemy of three ingredients -- white rum, lime juice, and sugar -- that, when combined, create true magic in a glass.

The exact origins of the daiquiri are lost in the mists of time, but the generally accepted story is that it was created by Americans in the town of Daiquiri, Cuba, during the Spanish-American War in the late 1890s. By 1920, it was well-known enough in the States to warrant a mention in F. Scott Fitzgerald's classic novel This Side Of Paradise. In the '30s and '40s, as tourism to Cuba increased, the daiquiri's popularity really took off. Everyone from JFK to the drink's best-known proponent, Ernest Hemingway, could be seen downing them. There are very fine daiquiri variations, such as Papa's own Hemingway Daiquiri. Over the decades, however, the drink has been bastardized, slushified and infused with more fruit flavors than a pack of Starburst.

Here's how to make a classic daiquiri, as described in Gary Regan's invaluable tome The Joy Of Mixology:

2 ounces white or light rum
1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice (emphasis on fresh-squeezed)
1/2 ounce simple syrup (simple syrup is equal parts sugar and water, with the sugar dissolved)

Combine ingredients in a shaker with plenty of ice, and strain into a wineglass. You can use a lime round as garnish if you have any left.

And, voila. Such an uncomplicated recipe gives would-be mixologists plenty of room to tinker, but little room for improvement.

Since a daiquiri is more than half rum, the question of which one to use is a vital one. Strangely, however, white rums, with the exception of Bacardi, aren't nearly as well known as their darker, longer-aged and unfiltered counterparts. Many distillers are hard-pressed to admit that they even market a white rum. Perhaps it's because, in most cases, they're somewhat unrefined and are meant for mixing, not sipping. Well, it's time to reclaim the daiquiri, and it's time to bring white rum out of the shadows. What follows is a list of several of the most noteworthy (for better or worse) white rums. Remember, a daiquiri is only as good as the ingredients you put into it. Choose your rum carefully! And, as always, if I missed any of your favorites, feel free to mention them in the Comments.

BACARDI SUPERIOR LIGHT RUM(01 of09)
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BACARDI SUPERIOR LIGHT RUM (Puerto Rico; aged 12 months, 40% alcohol by volume, $12). Bacardi is like the Budweiser of rums -- its popularity far outstrips its quality. Bacardi, founded in Cuba in 1862, has a long and illustrious history. The distillery relocated to Puerto Rico after Castro's rise to power, and while they still make some good dark rums, it's the same product in name only. Bacardi's light rum is, to put it mildly, not good -- it tastes like a cross between rum and gasoline, with a weird chemical aftertaste. Stick it in a daiquiri and the lime juice and sugar will mask some, but not all, of the harshness. Recommended only if you have a bottle on hand and all the nearby liquor stores are closed for the night.
BANKS 5 ISLAND RUM(02 of09)
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BANKS 5 ISLAND RUM (Aged 5-12 years; 43% ABV, $30). Many, if not most, white rums are intended to be used as mixers, not drunk straight. Banks is an exception; in fact, they claim that "mixing won't improve our rum, but it will most certainly improve your cocktail." I couldn't agree more. Banks is a combination of rums from Trinidad, Jamaica, Guyana, Barbados and Java (hence the name), which are aged between 5-12 years and then charcoal-filtered. The flavor is big and robust -- dry and a little grassy to play off the sugar, and subduing the harsher citrus elements of the lime without beating it into submission. Of all the white rums I've tried, this one stands out the most. Sensational just about any way you want to serve it, and absolutely superb in a daiquiri. Costs a little more than most white rums, but it's worth every penny.
BRUGAL BLANCO ESPECIAL(03 of09)
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BRUGAL BLANCO ESPECIAL (Dominican Republic; aged at least one year, 40% ABV, $20). This is a really nice rum. It's crisp, tangy, dry with hints of fruit on the palate. In a daiquiri, it's not as distinctive as Banks, but it definitely makes its presence known -- as a friend of mine put it, "This one has some hello." To my mind, a good white rum's job is to harmonize with the lime juice and sugar, bringing their disparate flavors together while lending its own distinctive notes to the mix as well. In this respect, Brugal succeeds admirably.
CHAIRMAN'S RESERVE SILVER(04 of09)
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CHAIRMAN'S RESERVE SILVER (St. Lucia; aged at least one year, 40% ABV, $20). A very smooth, mild rum, perhaps to a fault. There's absolutely nothing wrong with it, and it makes a perfectly good daiquiri. But at the same time, nothing about it stands out. Vanilla, coconut, honey, orange and spice make up the flavor profile -- at least that's what I've read -- but I couldn't taste any of it in my daiquiri. You could certainly do a lot worse (Bacardi, for example). But while Chairman's Reserve has no discernible faults, it's not very distinctive, either.
DON Q CRISTAL(05 of09)
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DON Q CRISTAL (Puerto Rico; aged 1-3 years, 40% ABV, $10). This is the perfect rum for novice cocktailians to use when making the transition from fruity, slushy ersatz-daiquiris to the real thing. It's very light, very pleasant, and brings out the fruitiness of the lime. A friend of mine said of a DonQ daiquiri, "This is the happiest daiquiri I've ever had." It's not the most challenging white rum I've ever had -- its flavor is pretty straightforward and unsubtle -- but the less of a cocktail snob you are, the more you'll enjoy it.
DENIZEN RUM(06 of09)
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DENIZEN RUM (Trinidad & Jamaica; aged 2 years, 40% ABV, $15). A blend of rums from Trinidad and Jamaica, bottled in Amsterdam, Denizen is like a moving target to the taste buds -- each sip of my daiquiri revealed something new and different. And by the time I felt like I was beginning to get a handle on it, my glass was empty. Further "research" indicates a sweet, almost floral flavor with hints of vanilla, molasses and wood. It's a rollercoaster of flavor, and the fact that it's so hard to sum up in a pithy sentence or two is, to me, the hallmark of a distinctive spirit. Not to mention delicious. It costs only about as much as a bottle of Bacardi, but it gives you a whole lot more bang for your buck.
EL DORADO CASK AGED 3 YEARS(07 of09)
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EL DORADO CASK AGED 3 YEARS (Guyana; aged 3 years, 40% ABV, $20). This isn't El Dorado's only white rum -- their Superior White is lovely light and dry mixer, while the 6 Year Old De Luxe may be the most flavorful white rum I've ever tried. But the 3 Year is my favorite of the three in a daiquiri. At first it's very dry, almost astringent. But with each successive sip, it unfolds, revealing new layers of flavor -- vanilla, nut, and almost vegetal grassy notes among them. This isn't an "easy" rum; it's sophisticated, complex, and wonderful, both for daiquiris and for sipping.
FLOR DE CAñA EXTRA DRY(08 of09)
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FLOR DE CAñA EXTRA DRY (Nicaragua; aged 4 years, 40% ABV, $15). Aged for four years in once-used oak barrels, you can taste a lot more wood in Flor de Caña than you'd expect from a white rum, even when it's competing with the other flavors in a daiquiri. It's dry, crisp and flavorful, smoothing out the lime's rough edges without making it too sweet. My only complaint is that you can taste the alcohol a little too much, so even if the citrus doesn't hit you in the back of the throat, the alcohol might give a little "burn." I don't know why this is, since the rum is a standard 80 proof (40% alcohol by volume). In the end, though, my quibble is a minor one -- this rum does a daiquiri justice and then some.
And for a change of pace...(09 of09)
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PISCO PORTON (Peru; unaged, 43% ABV, $35). OK, I know, this isn't a rum, but if you're looking for an interesting change of pace for your daiquiri, pisco is the way to go. Distilled from grapes, pisco is closer to grappa or eau-de-vie than rum, and on its own I find the flavor to be fruitier and somewhat harsher. But put it in a mixed drink, such as the Pisco Sour, and the harshness disappears. In a daiquiri, it lends a full, vibrant and tangy flavor that you won't confuse with rum, but which works almost as well. I'm not an expert on piscos, but my favorite right now is Porton -- it's delicate in some respects, almost floral in its tropical sweetness, while at the same time delivering quite a lot of peppery spice.

Now it's your turn. Agree? Disagree? Have a favorite that I missed? Don't be shy! Discerning daiquiri drinkers await your feedback!

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