Spilling The Beans On Colombia's Coffee Triangle

The so-called "coffee triangle" is higher in elevation and cooler in climate than must of the rest of Colombia.
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I'm sadly in the home stretch of my Colombia trip. Having explored a salt-mine-turned-cathedral near Bogotá, as well as Tayrona National Park and the city of Cartagena along Colombia's Caribbean Coast, I'm now in the Eje Cafetero, Colombia's coffee-producing region.

The so-called "coffee triangle" is higher in elevation and cooler in climate than must of the rest of Colombia. Its residents exude a laid back gusto for life that contradicts how amped-up they should all be, what with the copious amounts of amazing coffee and all.

Pour yourself a cup of joe (Colombian, if possible) and come with me on a virtual journey through this caffeinated region.

PHOTOS: Colombia's Coffee Triangle
Salento Morning(01 of10)
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The charming town of Salento is the de-facto epicenter of Colombia's Eje Cafetero. Salento sits in close proximity to both of the main tourist draws in this region: The Valle del Cocora and the fincas where coffee is harvested and processed. Stay at Casona de Lili, a small guest house located along Salento's main street, for an authentic local experience.
Valle de Cocora(02 of10)
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Valle del Cocora is located approximately one hour from downtown Salento by jeep. The centerpiece of Valle del Cocora is Los Nevados National Park Park, home to the Quindía wax palm, Colombia's national tree, among other stunning flora and fauna.
Necesitas Botas(03 of10)
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Visitors to Valle del Cocora can hire a guide and a horse, or simply hike. If you do hike, make sure and rent a pair of knee-high boots before embarking on the trail, whose five or so miles are frequently muddy due to year-round rain.
Cornelius(04 of10)
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Head away from Salento's town center on Carrera 5 and take the road until its very end (about an hour of brisk walking) to reach Finca Las Brisas, a coffee farm that is 100% organic and uses zero modern technology. Finca Las Brisas is owned by a 74-year old man named Cornelius, who hand-harvests the coffee he has proudly grown for decades to this day.
Bridge Over Tranquil Water(05 of10)
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Once you have traversed the first couple miles of the trail, the open plains of the valley give way to a jungle of sorts, through which cold, clear springs flow and where tropical wildlife and vegetation is abundant.
Mariposa(06 of10)
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Among the most beautiful inhabitants of the jungle portion of Los Nevados National Park are its butterflies, which you will likely see by the hundreds. My personal favorite were these blue-black varieties, whose wings are flecked in a fluorescent green that goes perfectly with the neon leaves of the rainforest.
Eje Cafetero(07 of10)
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While a jeep is your best bet for getting to Valle del Cocora, it's possible to reach some of the coffee fincas of the Eje Cafetero on foot when departing from Salento. These coffee farms, many of them organic and artesenal, are located amid scenery that is equally as impressive and dramatic as Valle del Cocora.
(08 of10)
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No matter which finca you visit, your guide will acquaint you with the traditional process Colombian process of producing coffee. After the coffee beans are harvested and their skins removed (in the case of Finca Las Brisas, this is with a crude machine that's several centuries old), the skinless beans are washed, allowed to ferment, washed four more times, then allowed to dry in the sun for a period that varies depending on the humidity in the air. The second skin of the beans is then removed with a similarly primitive device, at which point they are sent to the local coffee co-op. Coffee beans intended for local consumption are roasted, while those that are to be exported are left in un-roasted form.
Cafe de Colombia(09 of10)
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A complimentary cup of delicious, organic Colombian coffee is a standard accompaniment to any finca tour. I don't think this photo needs much explanation.
Trucha(10 of10)
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The traditional meal of Colombia's coffee-producing region is trucha, or trout. Seen here prepared as the traditional trucha frita (served with rice, a fresh salad and a fried patacon of smashed plantains), trucha is also available broiled in sauces flavored with garlic, coconut and even Thai spices.

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