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Open Image ModalThe Galapagos Islands teem with giant tortoises, marine lizards, masked boobies and other natural marvels. No wonder the Ecuadorian archipelago inspired Charles Darwin. This October, I spent a week exploring the remote isles, first on a four-night expedition on M/V Santa Cruz, a 237-foot, 90-person ship staffed with naturists, then island-hopping on my own.The Santa Cruz was on the older side but spotless, and though the larger size made for less than intimate experience, it also meant being less prone to shaking in the open water. The competent staff and hot showers (with desalinated water) made the experience more than comfortable. But I wasn't there for the captain's dinner or other usual cruise experiences.Going with an organized expedition had a distinct advantage: Many of the uninhabited islands are closed to public, and only tour operators with special permits are allowed to land, and for limited amounts of time to minimize impact on the wildlife. Highlights included snorkeling alongside playful sea lions off vermillion beaches of Rábida Island and exploring Genovesa, a remote avian haven where endemic birds, in the absence of land predators, simply nest on the ground and ignore humans that walk by.
(02 of17)
Open Image ModalThe incredible marine iguanas, endemic to the islands, are the only kind of lizards to evolve over millions of years to swim in the sea. Though they are easy to spot on shore, I was lucky to see it feeding so close to the surface while snorkeling. You usually need to dive as deep as 30 feet to observe them feasting on seaweeds.
(03 of17)
Open Image ModalThe cool water affords great visibility to explore the abundant marine life.
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Open Image Modal…which means you won't miss the sleek sea lions that glide by.
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Open Image ModalBut if you do, playful sea lions will return to say hello. Smaller than their Californian cousins, the Galapagos sea lions weigh between 110 and 550 pounds, and live communally in herds led by one alpha male.
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Open Image ModalRazor surgeon fish like to swarm in schools…
(07 of17)
Open Image Modal...while the white-tipped sharks tend to swim in solitude. Our expedition included deep-sea snorkeling with a guide, in groups of about a dozen. Lola, a cheerful marine biologist, assured me that though the male white-tipped reef sharks found near the Galapagos bite the females to show affection, they're not interested in nibbling on humans.
(08 of17)
Open Image ModalThis particular shark didn't seem too interested in me, either.
(09 of17)
Open Image ModalSome fish prefer to take a low-profile and find camouflage against rocks.
(10 of17)
Open Image ModalGiant tortoises, once almost extinct, are making a comeback, thanks to various breeding programs that preserve the unique genetic makeup of these ancient animals. Native to seven of the Galapagos Islands, they evolved in separate directions to adapt to unique landscapes; for instance, some developed receded shells to allow their necks to reach higher for cactus flowers.
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Open Image ModalSea lions, once sated from their feeding expeditions, spend most of the day napping.
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Open Image ModalBecause there are no native predatosr on land, adorable pups can be seen playing alone.
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Open Image ModalThe fur seal, once hunted by poachers for their furry leather, stays solitary for the most part.
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Open Image ModalThe mocking birds, unaccustomed to predators, don't seem hesitant to walk up to humans. Feeding them is strictly verboten, obviously.
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Open Image ModalThe great blue heron is indeed great, taking its sweet time to take off into the sky.
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Open Image ModalThe trees are filled with red-footed boobies.
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Open Image Modal