WINES FOR THANKSGIVING: Picks From 10 Winemakers & Experts

WINES FOR THANKSGIVING: Picks From 10 Winemakers & Experts
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**Scroll down for picks & tips on picking the best wine for Thanksgiving from winemakers and wine experts**

Thanksgiving is the clusterf*ck of wine holidays. Pardon the language, no other word adequately describes the delusion that your carefully chosen wines will ever pair up with their intended dish. Most people usually just grab the closest bottle, destroying your subtle unoaked chardonnay with jalapeño cornbread. And the expensive Pinot you were saving for the main course? Yeah, Uncle Billy has a corkscrew too. That was gone before the salad.

So, forget the idea that there is a perfect wine buying strategy. All the Best Wines For Thanksgiving articles offer conflicting advice, and the idea that everyone in America should be hunting down the same ten bottles is ridiculous. What the holiday does offer the casual wine lover is a good learning opportunity. There's a wider variety of bottles on your table than most other nights, and with a little attention you'll come away with at least one wine/food pairing to remember, and one to avoid.

Developing a relationship with a wine store is always one of your best bets. They know the wines and will get to know your preferences. For Thanksgiving, they will usually ask whether you want only U.S. wines or if other countries are acceptable. Be a patriot, or a slave to your palate -- the choice is yours. But since the trend seems to be European now, I asked some American winemakers (many of whom are also organic and biodynamic), and some wine-loving friends, which of their wines they'd be serving and about their own Thanksgiving traditions.

Wines for Thanksgiving
Rosés and Carignanes (Coturri Rosé 2009, Carignane Testa Vineyards 2008)(01 of10)
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Tony Coturri of Coturri Winery: For those who love his wines, no holiday meal is complete without a Zinfandel from Coturri. Winemaker Tony Coturri, however, will be reaching for some of his other bottles. "The Coturri Rosé 2009 is my first choice. It's more full bodied than most. It's got more grip to work with the turkey." Surely then, a Zinfandel would be his next choice? "I'll also be serving the Carignane Testa Vineyards 2008. It will match almost any type of dinner people are doing." And for those of us who want the Zinfandel? "The Coturri Estate Zinfandel 2007 is a better match for something with hot peppers or strong flavors. It needs a little more creativity to go with it." Coturri's wines have been featured at the James Beard House Thanksgiving dinners for the past few years.
Dry, aromatic white blends (Abraxas, Vin De Terroir 2009)(02 of10)
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Robert Sinskey of Robert Sinskey Vineyards: The Sinskey family maintains a strict "no marshmallow" policy for their sweet potatoes. All the better to enjoy their meal with the Abraxas, Vin De Terroir 2009. "It's a blend of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Blanc," says winemaker Robert Sinskey. "It's floral, dry, wonderful aromatics. It will match a broad range of flavors at the table: turkey, gravy, mashed potatoes. Even sweet potatoes, as long as they're not too many marshmallows." The Sinskey family also brings the Abraxas along for their day-after-Thanksgiving tradition; an oyster fest at Hog Island Oyster Company. Though for the BBQ oysters, Robert like his Pinot Noir.
Sparkling wines (Domaine Carneros Brut Vintage 2006)(03 of10)
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Eileen Crane of Domaine Carneros: Eileen Crane enjoys the look on people's faces when they taste her sparkling wine. "Not everyone works in the wine world. So many people are used to bad 'wedding champagne.' It's nice to see them pleasantly surprised." Eileen always celebrates Thanksgiving with the same group of friends, and this year she'll be bringing magnums of the Domaine Carneros Brut Vintage 2006. "Thanksgiving is always a mix of everyone's different family traditions. Sparkling wine matches with the simple or the fancy."And for those of you who like to mix things with sparkling wine, you finally have permission from the winemaker herself. "If you want to personalize the wine, add a paper thin slice of pear or pink lady apple. It's much cheaper than buying a liquor mixer, which will only ruin the finesse. Americans believe there are all these rules about wine. Who made them up?"
Benziger Tribute 2005(04 of10)
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Mike Benziger of Benziger Family Winery: "They're not a lot of family wineries left," says winemaker Mike Benziger. "We're thankful as a family business that we've been able to survive. Even though we all work side by side, Thanksgiving is the first day we can sit down and really be together." They'll be celebrating this year with the Benziger Tribute 2005, made from the grapes that surround their home. "The acid and tannins have the same balance as the turkey and gravy." The large family, about 50 people this year, always starts off the day with an early football game. "Then we go to the local tavern, rehydrate and tend to wounds. After that we go home to slay the turkey."
Merlots, unoaked Chardonnays (Shinn Estate Nine Barrel Reserve Merlot 2007 & Chardonnay 2009)(05 of10)
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Barbara Shinn of Shinn Estate Vineyards: Barbara Shinn's wood burning oven cooks an entire turkey in 45 minutes. For her holiday meal with family and friends, she'll be serving her Nine Barrel Reserve Merlot 2007. "We choose the best 9 barrels from the vintage and blend right from there. It's got beautiful fruit character and a nice chocolate and coffee finish. It pairs with so many things on the table." This Merlot is blended with a touch of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Barbara also likes to start guests with her Chardonnay 2009, which is fermented with indigenous yeasts and made in an unoaked style.
Pinot Noirs and red blends (Evening Land Pinot Noir Oregon "Blue Label" 2009, Edmunds St. John Rocks & Gravel 2009)(06 of10)
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Evan Spingarn of David Bowler Wines: "I'll be drinking the Evening Land Pinot Noir Oregon "Blue Label" 2009. They craft special bottlings for several top sommeliers in New York. They focus on organically grown Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. In fact, any of the wines would grace Thanksgiving nicely, but it's the deep, sensual fruit and warm earthiness of the Pinot Noir, biodynamically grown in the Seven Springs vineyard, that really belongs on the table."Another choice is the Edmunds St. John Rocks & Gravel 2009. "Steve Edmunds - poet, songwriter, scientist, philosopher, and incredibly sweet guy - is one of the unsung heroes of old-school, natural winemaking in California. He works out of Berkeley with fruit he gleans from tiny, beautiful garden vineyards all over the north and central coasts. His wines are not the big, flashy, more is more style of Cali winemaking. They are European in their restraint, subtlety and minerality. Robert Parker neither enjoys nor understands them; no higher recommendation need be made." Evan also says to decant this for a few hours before dinner, and for those of you planning ahead, grab a few extra bottles for next year.
Zinfadels (St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel 2008)(07 of10)
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Heather Munden of St. Francis Winery and Vineyards: Winemaker Heather Munden likes to work her way around the Thanksgiving table clockwise. "I've got turkey with cranberry sauce, yams with marshmallow stuffing. It's impossible to have a sip of chardonnay to match one thing, then sip something else to match the next bite." She'll be serving the St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel 2008 for her dinner. "Zinfandel goes well with every component. Gravy on top of your mashed potatoes will help balance the acid."(Photo from Flickr: naotakem)
Sauvignon Blancs with strong fruit and minerality (Yorkville Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2009)(08 of10)
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Edward Wallo of Yorkville Cellars: "There's a rhythm and tradition we've fallen into," says winemaker Edward Wallo of his holiday meal. "Sauvignon Blanc is always the first thing we uncork. We use it as an aperitif, even before any food comes out. Then it's also great when we get into the appetizers, like vegetables and dips and nuts. Our Sauvignon Blanc 2009 is a wake up your palate sort of wine. Plenty of fruit, minerality and reasonable acid. Our vineyards are at 1300 ft. and it makes a more racy wine."
Sauvignon Blancs, Rhone style wines (Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Wine Creek Ranch Grenache 2008, Wine Creek Ranch Mourvedre 2007)(09 of10)
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Hugh Chappelle of Quivira Vineyards: Winemaker Hugh Chappelle will serve Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009 to start off this year's Thanksgiving dinner. "It's organic and biodynamic certified. The wild yeast fermentation gives it a little more complexity and more grip." He then prefers his Rhone style wines for the main dishes. "The Wine Creek Ranch Grenache 2008 is a real crowd pleaser. It's got more tannin than a pinot noir, and a bit of strawberry flavor. And our Wine Creek Ranch Mourvedre 2007 has a great rustic quality." The Chappelle family likes their turkey organic as well, brined and cooked slow. "Some years we'll splurge on a truffle maybe, and add a little exoticness to the meal. But mostly we're pretty traditional."
Zinfandels (Tulocay Zinfandel Amador County)(10 of10)
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Lyle Fass of Rockss and Fruit: When asked for an American wine he would serve at Thanksgiving, Lyle Fass, the man behind Rockss and Fruit and the Organic Wine Journal's No Spoof Zone, pretended three times not to hear the question, then disconnected his phone service. When cornered leaving town on a Metro-North train he offered up the Tulocay Zinfandel Amador County. "It's a restrained, elegant wine that will complement food and not drown it out."

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