Everyone who cares about barbecue knows that the real stuff comes from "little shacks with huge smokers that burn down every couple of years," says Charlie Kleinman, the chef at Wexler's in San Francisco, known for its upscale take on barbecue. But over the last couple of years, it's gotten a whole lot easier to find good barbecue that doesn't reside on a country road; it might not be in the country at all.
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